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I have a very good original T35 Operation and Maintenance Handbook (dated 11/47 I believe). Additionally I have a Maintenance Manual for1948 to 1951 which also covers the T35. Both books in great condition. Love to swap for CW parts, particularly good barrels.

Jeff
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Like you say, it sure looks like a Brooks B170.  I am currently working on a Clyno with the Lycett version of the same saddle.  Here is a photo of the frame that would be what you are missing, hope this helps.
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Douglas Motorcycles - General Discussion / Re: Douglas Aero 1937
« Last post by Doug on 13 Apr 2019 at 14:59  »
Eric,

Usually for de-glazing you would use an inexpensive tool such as this:



But if you did not want to buy a tool at all, I suppose it could just as well be done with a flexible hand abrasive pad like 3M ScotchBrite or similar nylon matting embedded with silicon carbide grains. Then just get in there with your hand and a helical motion. The cutting action will be so slow that unless you are at it for hours I doubt that you will make any alteration to size or wear any local hollow spots into the cast iron.

-Doug
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Douglas Motorcycles - General Discussion / Re: Douglas Aero 1937
« Last post by Eric S on 13 Apr 2019 at 09:53  »
Thank you Doug

As for the de-glazing of the cylinder's wall, if you don't use a tool, how would you do it?
I am not using any new part (rings or pistons) and I have not seen any cylinder ridge.
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Douglas Motorcycles and Parts For Sale - Private / Douglas Items for Sale
« Last post by Red on 13 Apr 2019 at 09:17  »
The Club has been contacted by an ex-Douglas owner who has the following items for sale. If anyone is interested please PM me and I will provide you with Gerry's email address:-

I have sold my 1924. 2 3/4 Hp CW Douglas and have some parts and info. that may be of use to your members.
2 off complete Conrods with bearings etc. Part of a batch of New Titanium CNC Rods manufactured and running in the bike I have just sold.
Book of the Douglas by E>W>Knott Issue 1928 .
Reprint of
Spare Parts List 1921/1922
Hand book 1920
A3 Douglas prints. 5 Sheets of
Engine Blue Prints
Working Drawings for the manufacture of
Con Rod assemblies including bearings etc.
I would like your members to make use of these items before I place them on the open market. I would be grateful if you could make them aware and contact me if interested.

Gerry Gibbins
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Douglas Motorcycles - General Discussion / EW and CW Clutch Parts
« Last post by Rob on 13 Apr 2019 at 08:47  »
I am trying to put together a CW flywheel clutch and I don't have all the correct parts. I have a collection of CW and EW (or similar other model) clutch parts and was wondering what parts are inter-changeable.

It looks to me that only the Spring Cover, the Adjusting Nut, the internal Spring retaining ring, the Spring Cover holding cover (the one the is held by 4 screws to the flywheel) are virtually the same. I am I correct?

It also looks to me that the "Centre Plate" as described in the EW manual and the "Driving Plate" in the CW literature are the same except that the EW has the friction disc fixed either side where as the CW friction discs are fixed the the Back Plate and Pressure Plate.

Is this a correct assumption?

Can the the CW clutch be modified to have the friction discs mounted on the CW Driving plate? This is only because I have the EW backing plate, a suitable EW Centre Plate and I need to get a Pressure plate made (but I have the appropriate CW pressure plate boss.)

Any advice would be appreciated.




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Douglas Motorcycles and Parts Wanted / Re: CW barrels - help!
« Last post by Hutch on 12 Apr 2019 at 23:48  »
Jeff,
I may be able to help. PM sent

Ian
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Douglas Motorcycles - General Discussion / Re: Douglas Aero 1937
« Last post by Doug on 12 Apr 2019 at 15:36  »
Eric,

There are some carburetor cleaners that will soften carbon deposits but it is probably not worth the risk to the new paint. So typically one manually scrapes the carbon off with a copper or aluminum tool that will not cut into the iron.

A plate of flat glass and abrasive compound is the classic way to lap a surface flat. But it is slow and eventually will wear the glass to a non-flat condition. I use a sheet of wet/dry silicon carbide paper (sandpaper) tapped to a flat surface. This saves wear and tear on the flat surface, and one can start off with coarse grit and rapidly change to finer grit. Nowadays it is easier to find a range of different grit sandpaper in one's workshop supplies than a range of grit compounds. Some light oil or soapy water on the paper will stop it from clogging up too quickly.

Valve lapping. I tend to go with what I have on the shelf in the coarse, medium, and fine grits without looking at the numerical grit value. Some of the tins are so old the labels are not legible anyway!

To anneal copper you heat it to a dull red (in dim light) and either allow it to cool in air, or plunge in a bucket of water. I have seen temperatures quoted of anywhere from 400C to 700C. Quenching in water does have the advantage of cleaning the surface. A little acid in the water will help if the discoloration/scaling is tenacious.

The tool shown is typically what is used here to clean and lightly hone brake cylinder bores. I suppose larger versions can also be used to clean cylinder bores and remove cylinder wall glazing and put in a new cross-hatch pattern to help new piston rings to bed in. But I would not expect that type of hone to do much to resize or true up a bore, nor would I use it to remove a cylinder ridge (the ridge formed where the top piston ring stopped.)

-Doug


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Douglas Motorcycles and Parts Wanted / CW barrels - help!
« Last post by jasper1912 on 12 Apr 2019 at 01:39  »
After some decades I have again ventured into the Douglas world with the acquisition of a fairly complete 1925 CW project. Most of the engine (and spares) seem quite good but after cleaning up, both barrels both have deep piston pin scores. I realise that reasonable barrels are probably now getting thin on the ground but maybe someone can help to avoid going down the sleeving path. Amongst my bits are a pair of what I believe to be veteran barrels, although one of these has damage around a valve guide. Maybe part of a swap?

Thanks for reading,

Jeff
Newcastle NSW
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