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Phew - temptation removed!

Hi The 1911 has been removed from sale Daren
I had just the same problem with my DF. I rebuilt the basket case engine and having rebored to 63mm to remove 50 years of rust, replaced the small end bush to 15mm to suit Honda 250N +1.0 oversize pistons. Today I discovered the fault was that there was insufficient clearance for the small end within the piston which caused the piston to be nudged ever so slightly within the bore about half way down the barrel. The result after 10 minutes running were some fine scratches on the barrel but not all the way along, just where the piston was nudged by the conrod and witness marks on the rough casting surface inside of the piston showing what had happened. I Carefully smoothed out the rough casting on the piston and the smoke has cleared.
Hi Roy, the new needle did indeed cure the leak. It was part number 22/014 & I got it from a seller thats not advertising at the moment, but Villiersparts stock them;

Hope this helps.
Hi Aero

My son is just finishing off the restoration of a 500cc Aero. The carb is the same as the one fitted to your bike and the float chamber is the same 22/028 and like your carb it is leaking fuel. Did the new float needle cure the problem and if so can you tell me the part number of the float needle you ordered and when got it from. Thanks

Douglas Motorcycles - General Discussion / Re: Douglas Aero 1937
« Last post by cardan on Today at 05:34 »
1. Are the ring grooves clean enough?
2. piston condition remain still usable? I hope so as I don't plan to change them and in any case the engine was running fine with them in.
3. Any order/matching in ring gap dimension or we just don't care?
4. I cleaned and removed any gasket compound (used on top of paper) surplus and removed everything I can see. Is it quite critical given the oiling system to have a real clean engine interior or is it tolerant. I mean do I need to make 200% sure nothing is left behind that may plug the oiling system. Not sure of the pression and size of ports in this system.
5. any comment?

Hi Eric,

1. Probably
2. They look OK, but the critical issue is the fit of each piston to its cylinder. Check there is more than 6 and less than 10 thou between the skirt of the piston and the cylinder wall at the bottom of the stroke. I assume the bores are ok - not too badly worn at the top. If there are any scuff marks on the pistons, smooth them off with a "flat" file - preferably a brand new one that has never been used on steel.
3. Personally, I think 4 rings per piston is way too many in a bike like this. I'd use plain rings in the top two grooves and leave the others empty. Not everyone will agree, so if you want to fit more use the order proposed above. Use the smaller gaps on the top rings, and the shockers on the skirt. The ring gaps should be set by filing, rather than cutting. Make sure - with a file - the ends of the rings are square and free from burrs.
4. Clean is good. If you have sand/glass/abrasive blasted anything internal you will need to clean, clean and clean again. A few tiny floaties of gasket material won't hurt, but if you wash thoroughly most should be gone.
5. Comment: If you don't have a copy of Radco's "Vintage Motorcyclist's Workshop" get one. It has most of the answers to our questions, and contains almost nothing that is "wrong". I like the way Radco recognises that we're not trying to build MotoGP racers, and cuts some slack to the home mechanic!


I just noticed the mark on the left side of the tank where the flywheel has rubbed...

Rare? Yes I think so:


Hi Daren,

Your middle link has some good photos of the unusual 1911 gearbox. 1920s B&B carburettor aside, it's a good indication of what "the project" plus a couple of year's hard work might produce.

Hi Artur,

I have sended a message to you, I hope it had worked?

Kind regards
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