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Thank you for the information. I sent an E-mail to Aero Works a few days ago and still waiting for their reply...
Douglas Motorcycles - General Discussion / Re: S.L. Bailey
« Last post by Doug on Today at 00:37 »
All three bikes pictured at Wellington Speedway are (or started out as) OB models. The OC would have the rear axle lugs casting like the DT/SW and TT/IoM models had. OB had the simple plate lug like the RA.

Douglas Motorcycles - General Discussion / Re: S.L. Bailey
« Last post by Hutch on Yesterday at 02:11 »
SLB's "middle aged spread" can also be seen in this 1921 picture of him with the Douglas racing car at Brooklands!

Some details of the OHV engine can just be seen.

The frame of Lounde's bike posted above appears to be OB rather than OC given the front and rear brake shoe lever mounting lug locations? Rear wheel is obviously not OB, engine could be either OB or OC. Either way - as Leon said above -it deserved better!

well done Leon on getting to the 100th reply of this thread with the word "century" in the advert you posted!.

Douglas Motorcycles - General Discussion / Re: Acetylene Light Hoses
« Last post by richard s1 on 11 Dec 2018 at 22:55  »
Go to Bert Pol's website on the interweb, but you'll need a thick wallet.
Douglas Motorcycles - General Discussion / Re: S.L. Bailey
« Last post by cardan on 11 Dec 2018 at 21:14  »
Les's waistcoat buttons hint at why others were doing the riding in 1923.
Douglas Motorcycles - General Discussion / Re: S.L. Bailey
« Last post by cardan on 11 Dec 2018 at 21:09  »
I prefer "look-alike" - "replica" sounds a bit too official. Interesting that the guy in the middle photo has cut down a full-electric OC - surely it deserved better.

By the TT in June 1925 Pullin's upgrade to the Bailey RA was complete.


Douglas Motorcycles - General Discussion / Re: Douglas Aero 1937
« Last post by Eric S on 11 Dec 2018 at 08:33  »
Well I will check with him about the oil slinger; I am surprised as he's definitively involved in motorbike engines and even though a young businessman, he built a lot of motorbike engines, working on hi-performance 2 strokes engines and working earlier for a motorbike restoration company.
The bearing in place now is well a 21mm.

It looks like a least one felt has been replaced with a rubber on this engine... I will check the other end.
Thanks Doug.
Should have put in my original post that  its a 1927 model,
that explains why I couldn't see anywhere to fit a collar.
Douglas Motorcycles - General Discussion / Re: Douglas Aero 1937
« Last post by Doug on 11 Dec 2018 at 06:33  »

As mentioned previously, there should be a oil slinger between each end of the crankshaft and the adjacent ball bearing. Not only does this limit the amount of oil blowing through the bearings, it stops any large debris that inadvertently might get loose inside the engine from getting into the bearing. If your mechanic does not recognize an oil slinger and the use thereof, find another mechanic! Between the flywheel side bearing and the crankcase will be any shims required to limit end float of the crankshaft assembly. Even back then 21mm wide double row ball bearings were going out of style, so a 20mm bearing and a 1mm shim was the normal starting point; and then the shims were added to set the end float. I cannot just now remember for certain if there is a felt seal on the drive side; I am reasonably sure it did have one. Often there was on many of the models in this era. If there is a 3/6 to 1/4" deep recess in the crankcase between the bearing and the crankcase wall, then it certainly had a felt. If so, then another oil slinger is required to act as a shield and keep the felt out of the bearing. They were not using rubber rings or seals.

Most late-twenties and thirties Douglas engines that I have taken apart where I felt the bearings might have been original were SKF or Norma-Hoffman brands.

I don't think the face of the tappet adjusters is particularly hard, so resurfacing them and accidentally cutting through the case hardening should not be an issue. The problem with the wear is that you don't know exactly where the valve stem is going to land after a new adjustment. So if it lands half on the original surface and half on a worn pocket, you only have half the full bearing surface. As the valve stem is likely harder than the tappet adjuster, it will rapidly wear into the face of the tappet adjuster until the contact patch approximates the full diameter of the valve stem. Which means the valve clearance will go out of adjustment quicker than it otherwise might have.


Not sure what #8412 would be. Some models drove the oil pump off the inlet cam and those had extended hubs with a drive slot; but the EW switched early on to driving the oil pump via a worm on the end of the crankshaft. The cam wheels float freely on the cam spindle, trapped axially between the tappets of the front and rear cylinders. There shouldn't be anything touching or abutting either end of the cam, like a distance piece.

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