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Douglas Motorcycles - General Discussion / Re: EW 350
« Last post by douglas1947 on 16 May 2019 at 13:34  »
Hello Manfred,

your EW is in a very nice used condition.
May be you would like it too, to use the bike as it is?

Douglas Motorcycles and Parts For Sale - Private / Re: post war front wheels
« Last post by Dawn on 16 May 2019 at 13:13  »
Having had a Mark 3 Sports and an 80 Plus in the family I can confirm having a Plus brake doesn't make any difference.  :D
Douglas Motorcycles and Parts For Sale - Private / Re: post war front wheels
« Last post by eddie on 16 May 2019 at 11:50  »
The main problem is the mild steel brake drums - Ferodo on cast iron has a much better coefficient of friction!

Douglas Motorcycles and Parts For Sale - Private / post war front wheels
« Last post by tck on 16 May 2019 at 11:35  »
Anyone tried a non standard wheel/hub in a post war t35-mk5? even with relining and all the tricks and clamping with the brakes on its not exactly a good brake. Also, I am told the plus brake (it you could find one) is mainly a cosmetic improvement ... but I could be wrong
Douglas Motorcycles - General Discussion / engine rebuild
« Last post by raybsa on 16 May 2019 at 01:28  »
Have a 1914 350cc engine which has suffered main bearing failure on the rear conrod big end . Need to find someone who can supply or machine new bearings and fit them . Crankshaft may be alright however I have another crankshaft which is definitely good . Appreciate any help from anyone anywhere . 
Douglas Motorcycles - General Discussion / Re: mk v. Frame.
« Last post by ccmman on 15 May 2019 at 08:49  »
Hi Phil, it is an interesting design issue. I was thinking about the rather scary possibility of a frame tube cracking at a critical point, and, lets face it with my luck, when I'm pinning it with chin on tank!

Headstock lugs etc usually have good long sleeves, with heavily v'eed out slots in the sides, which reduces the stress raiser at the joint. Having a plain butt end on the lug is not good engineering practice, and a definite black mark on the designers paper. Cant imagine it saves much in the manufacturing process either?
Owner has now been found and the log book forwarded on to him. Thanks
Correction; my '36 Aero has the oil slots too. They are pointed down, and not visible in the photo I have on the computer. I did not recall them, but I started to get a nagging feeling of doubt and whipped the timing cover off and had a grope around in the timing chest. Presumably I positioned them downward to drain as that is the only consistently open orientation at all four tappet guide locations.

The slots I think you are referring to are to place a screwdriver or a drift against to knock the tappet guide free of its taper. It does not break through to the bore and so is not a oiling feature. So they should face the timing cover, except the one at the lower rear. That one has to face downward at an angle due to being blocked by the supporting casting. Again, align so as to afford the best purchase with a drift for knowing out.

Oops, just noticed in your pictures you have an additional slot. Not sure if that is original, or a modification. Presumably it should go up to introduce oil. Problem is the same lower rear tappet guide mentioned before is blocked by the casting for the slot to be any use. There should be several small holes between the timing chest that the tappet chests. A larger hole part way up to allow oil mist into the tappet chest to oil the valve stems. Then a smaller hole to drain oil back from the tappet chest to he timing chest. So if it has those holes, no reason to have the slot in the tappet guided facing downward to drain out excess oil. Unless they found too much oil was going into the tappet chests...

I don't recall others reporting a fracture there (or seeing same before), though two with the same issue does suggest a trend. If it is holding fast, perhaps not wake a sleeping dog. Douglas aluminum can be truly awful to weld due to porosity and impurities. You will have to re-skim all the joints to true it up, and sleeve and bore the bearing journal round as that amount of welding is sure to distort it. Not a minor undertaking!

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