Recent Posts

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61
Douglas Motorcycle Discussion / Re: S.L. Bailey
« Last post by cardan on 19 Jan 2024 at 01:04  »
41 years on from his TT debut in 1912, SLB's memory of the event was laser sharp, and he wasn't about to let anyone else get the credit for being the first Australian to lead a TT race!

Leon
62
Eddie,
Thank you! Great information… once I receive the carb I will see what all I’m dealing with… I appreciate any helpful information you have. Thanks again !
63
Here's the Australian equivalent, from Motor Cycling in Australia, February 1947. Blame the British weather for the late delivery! I wonder if bikes arrived in Australia before they were available on the home market?

Leon
64
Douglas Motorcycle Discussion / Re: Correct Carb for 1913 Douglas?
« Last post by eddie on 18 Jan 2024 at 10:02  »
George,
            You say in an earlier posting that the Douglas carb has one slide missing. The 2 slides are almost identical - the only difference is the 'choke' slide has the diameter slightly waisted (making it impossible to completely shut off the air supply). Swapping the slides makes it impossible to completely shut the throttle, so you won't get a good slow tickover. Another thing to bear in mind is that with the 'Douglas' carb fitted, the operation of the controls is reversed (pushing the throttle lever forward actually opens the throttle!).

  Regards,
                Eddie.
P.S.  When I get chance to lay my hands on the LDMCC's 2¾ machine, I will measure the 'waisting' on the choke slide.
65
Graeme,
I did decide to go with the Douglas carb… I believe you guys are correct…such a unique carb specific to the Douglas… I am still awaiting it’s arrival… I will post some pictures of it on the bike when it arrives. I’m still hunting footboards and pedals along with other bits… if anyone has any parts to fit a 1913 please let me know. Thanks
66
Douglas Motorcycle Discussion / Re: Douglas abandons pedals?
« Last post by graeme on 17 Jan 2024 at 07:04  »
Hi George

The Douglas carburettor was an option until 1916 as far as I am aware, certainly on the 4HP models at least
67
Douglas Motorcycle Discussion / Re: '25 CW clutch rebuild
« Last post by graeme on 17 Jan 2024 at 06:54  »
Nice work Frank

These thrust races are well known to break, so this is great info for anyone looking to replace theirs

Cheers, Graeme
68
Douglas Motorcycle Discussion / Re: Correct Carb for 1913 Douglas?
« Last post by graeme on 17 Jan 2024 at 06:35  »
Hi George

Both carburettors look great! It is your choice as to what to use, but if it was me I would go with the Douglas one because it is unique to the make. A slide would be very easy to make for someone with access to a lathe, and as far as a float goes, any float that fits into the chamber with a hollow for the needle to pass through could be made to work. Good luck!

Cheers, Graeme
69
Douglas Motorcycles and Parts Wanted - Private / EW350 Flywheel puller
« Last post by Steve3416 on 16 Jan 2024 at 13:44  »
Hi, I'm looking for an EW350 flywheel puller ifvanyone has one for sale. I'm located in the UK. Thanks, Steve.
70
Douglas Motorcycle Discussion / Re: Mark gearbox
« Last post by eddie on 12 Jan 2024 at 11:05  »
Laurie,
          You say you have oil leaking from the front of the gearbox. Is that with the gearbox in it's normal position? If it is with the gearbox stood on it's bellhousing - it's OK - it is designed to do that! There is a drain from the main shaft, through the figure '8' plate to the layshaft, that feeds some oil to the front layshaft bearing. This drain also acts as a breather for the gearbox. Some owners have in the past replaced the front layshaft bearing with a sealed bearing - this then blocks the escape route for any oil that gets past the mainshaft seal (as well as blocking the breather!).
  If you haven't yet managed to shift the drive coupling, undo the 6 nuts and remove the figure '8' plate - it should come away complete with the input shaft, but leaving the layshaft and mainshaft behind. You will then be able to check that you have the correct front lay shaft bearing (if it has been replaced with a sealed bearing, just knock the seals out). With the front plate off the 'box, leave the securing nut about 1 turn undone, and keep squeezing the coupling in the vice, moving round 1 spline at a time until the coupling works loose on the taper (it may be stubborn, but it will eventually give up).

  Hope this helps,
                          Regards,
                                       Eddie.
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