Seized

[Ralf]

All,
Have just acquired a 1930 T6 which hasn't been on the road for 40 years. It was in a museum amongst other places so external it's in reasonable nick but the engine is seized. I was going to pull the heads off and the timing cover etc. First Douglas I have owned (actually first sidevalve) so any tips would be welcome and any booby traps to look out for.
Thanks in advance
Ralf

[EW-Ron]

With any luck, it should all be straightforward.

It only takes a VERY thin smear of rust to stick up the piston rings in the bore.
Make sure you allow it a good soak in something like WD40 or ATF before trying to force it.
And don't force it as such - a tap with a large chunk of wood on the pistons will often jar things loose, 
without any possibility of damage.
Have fun, good luck !

[EW-Ron]

P.S. Putting it in gear and rocking the back wheel will often also do the trick.
After that aforementioned soak of the bore.
This saves any damage to the kickstarter mechanism or anything deeper.

If it still won't move, you may need to dig a bit deeper.
Which is always a good plan for something idle for so long.
The last thing you want to find is congealed dirty old oil blocking oilways or sticking things etc...

[EW-Ron]

Ultimately though, everything is going to require a partial stripdown at least, and reassembly 
ensuring everything is correctly lubed and ready to go.

Examples of this are wheel bearing grease having all migrating to the bottom, 
and the upper parts dry.  Steering bearings having dried up or drained out. Etc etc.
Failing to correct this could lead to poor lube, and premature wear.
All rubber parts should be checked for deterioration.
Rubber tyres and tubes are unlikely to still be safe.
Cables checked for adequate internal lube, if required.
Wiring checked for insulation integrity, and joints checked to be corrosion free.
All oiling anf grease points lubed. Etc etc.

This is frequently referred to as recommissioning - for good reason.
Hopethishelps.

[Ralf]

EW-Ron,
Thanks for that. It's been soaking happily for a couple of days so I'll give it a go shortly. You mentioned the oil galleries. Being dry sumped I assume that ensuring oil delivery is a priority. Will get on and see how we go !!
Cheers
Ralf

[eddie]

Ralf,
        When the time comes to rebuild the engine, leave the timing cover off until you have the engine in the frame and the primary chaincase attached. The engine through studs can then be tightened from the LH side - this ensures that all internal components are securely clamped in place before the timing cover is replaced. If you prematurely fit the timing cover, it is possible to have everything looking as if it is tight, but the cam followers and camshaft outrigger plate may be loose enough to move around on the through studs - usually resulting in the cam spindles working loose in the crankcase, and possibly breaking off the cast pillar that provides the oil supply to the valve gear.

  Hope this helps,
                          Regards,
                                        Eddie.

[Ralf]

Eddie,
Thanks for that ....Will do...she's moving now btw!!!

[Ralf]

All,
Started stripping etc.couple of questions which I am sure someone will know better than me.Firstly the generator over the timing cover...best way to remove..can only see the two bolts 9 o clock and 3 clock.secondly...the clutch side...after the springs are removed..best way to split...looks like someone has tried chisels on the castled nut

[eddie]

Ralf, 
       In the photo of the generator, you have already removed the 2 bolts that hold the generator in place, so it should just come away from the timing cover - however, you may find that the 'O' ring around the generator spigot has perished and is 'gluing' the generator in place. When you get the generator off, you will see it has a small drive gear, inside the timing cover there is a matching idler gear that drives the magneto. Both these items can fall out through the hole in the timing cover - be careful, otherwise, if the idler falls out, you will have to re-time the magneto.
     Going over to the flywheel - the retaining nut has not had the corners chiselled off - the nuts were produced like that! You will see that the flywheel has a retaining ring in it's centre - leave that in place - the flywheel nut will contact the back of that ring, making the flywheel 'self - extracting' as the nut is undone. When you come to dismantling the flywheel assembly - you will come across a mass of rollers and ball bearings (there are 2 rows of rollers and 1 row of balls) - these are the bearings for the friction plate and clutch release, and will need greasing to keep them in place as you re-assemble it. On refitting the balls in the clutch release, don't try to fit a full compliment - you should leave room for one more ball (otherwise they will run in contact with each other and become scuffed).

As before - hope this helps,
                                        Regards,
                                                     Eddie.