Mike,
The 2 extractor holes in the flywheel are tapped 5/16"BSF and are at 2" centres. Scaling the drawing in the handbook shows the main bar as something like 1½" x ½" x 3¾" long with a central ½"BSF tapped hole for the main extractor bolt. The 2 bolts that screw into the flywheel need to be 2" long (I would suggest that you use high tensile bolts, such as socket cap screws to prevent unnecessary straining of the threads in the flywheel - postwar flywheels can be stubborn!) If your flywheel is one of those - leave the nut on the crankshaft but undone a couple of turns, then load up the extractor and leave it overnight. In the morning, the flywheel will probably be loose on the shaft.
As you are finding the clutch action too heavy, check the condition of the 6 bronze bushes through the flywheel - they may have a build-up of clutch dust making them drag - this was quite common with the early generation of asbestos-free linings. There is a crafty dodge that you could try before dismantling anything. Fashion up a tapered wooden plug for the drain hole in the bellhousing, then pour just under a pint of petrol into the bellhousing, then turn the engine over a couple of times, lift the clutch and operate the kickstart to spin the clutch plate, operate the clutch several times again to see if it has eased the action as any build-up of muck has been washed away. Finish off by removing the plug, then re-grease the clutch release bearing. This dodge also works if you are experiencing clutch slip due to oil on the plate.
Another common cause of heavy action is flats on the 3 rollers in the clutch release - in which case, the flywheel will have to be removed to deal with it.
Good luck with the repairs,
Regards,
Eddie.
