Dragonfly clutch & kickstart problem.

[John Caffrey]

Having had another stroke my left hand is very weak, can`t disengage clutch which was very heavy anyway, too heavy to be right. The kickstart won`t engage either.  Is it possible to rebuild clutch mechanism and kickstart engagement without removing complete engine ( which will be impossible for me now ) ?   Failing that is there anyone who does this sort of job for sensible cost ?  Am rebuilding two 80/90 plus front wheels and wan`t to
ride it !!

[AndyMorgan]

I have no idea if this would improve things but there are a number of  "Easy Clutch" systems which adds a bit of extra leverage to the cable, thinking to fit one of these to my Darmah

[Roys rider]

I have just had a look at the videos about Easy Clutch systems and basically they are just another lever in the cable which will reduce the pulling effort, HOWEVER you get "nowt for owt". The cost is - there is a decease in clutch cable movement so the plates don't part as much. Will this cause drag? Depends on if there is any spare clutch  movement. i am sorry but I can't tell you that but maybe one of our experts can. I do know it wouldn't work with a Velocette clutch which will slip and drag if not set up precisely. This device would work if you can find a way to increase the clutch lever movement but they are already designed to fit a standard hand.
Cheers
Peter

[eddie]

Hi John,
              If you have a standard clutch cable fitted to your bike, try a good quality nylon lined cable - it's amazing how much lighter the clutch operation can be! If that doesn't work, I'm afraid any other remedial work will entail flywheel removal. Quite a common problem is flats on the 3 rollers on the clutch release, so the rollers have to be dragged up the ramps, rather than rolling up them. While the flywheel is off, you may also be able to lighten the clutch action even more by removing the inner clutch springs. This will, of course, make the clutch more prone to slipping, but if the clutch is in good order, it should still cope (I have a special with 2 engines that drive through a standard clutch without any slipping).
   
    When you say the kickstart wont engage - do you mean the teeth don't mesh, so it just jams - or do you get a full swing without turning the engine? If it just jams, you may be able to effect a repair by grinding back the 1st tooth on the quadrant (to make engagement easier). If the kickstart goes full swing without turning the engine. the kickstart is not connecting with the gearbox layshaft. This may be something simple like the nut on the back of the layshaft being overtightened and squeezing the bronze bush that carries the kickstart ratchet, thus preventing the ratchet from dropping back into engagement. A second problem which is not uncommon, is that the auxiliary shaft has broken out of it's housing. The housing is a round plate in the back of the gearbox (just below the right hand side of the swinging arm pivot) and held in by 3 screws. This plate is an alloy casting with a central boss on the inside - this supports the tail end of the shaft, but has a slot across it because Mr Douglas fitted the shaft with a pin to prevent it rotating. This slot obviously seriously weakens the casting, and it is easy to break out one side of the boss. If that is the problem, I would suggest retrieving the broken part from inside the gearbox and have it welded back into place - at the same time, have the slot welded up, and remove the pin from the shaft. It wont matter if the shaft can turn - it will only turn while the kickstart is being operated - once the kickstart is at rest, the shaft will be also.

  Hope some of this helps,

   Regards,
                   Eddie.