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Dave

2024-06-11, 20:02:05
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Dave

2024-06-08, 18:30:04
For Sale
xman has two very nice 1950's machines available - a green 1950 mk4 and black 1951 mk5 - both in good condition and running well.

Dave

2024-06-07, 02:13:36

Dave

2024-06-03, 08:23:05
For Sale
Duncan has just listed his green and cream 1957 Dragonfly for sale with spares and documents.

Dave

2024-06-02, 08:34:05
Parts avalable
alistair still has parts available - barrels, carburettor, castings - see all listings.


Dave

2024-06-01, 18:33:27

Dave

2024-05-28, 00:09:46
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Dragonfly - Fitting the Main Switch into the Nacelle

Started by BrmBrm, 03 Jul 2020 at 08:44

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BrmBrm

Dragonfly - Fitting the Main Switch into the Nacelle

I have very little limited info. on this and it is my next job.
I've had some valuable advice (thanks)- that the switch needs an insulating sheath and how the switch works. The other info. is my Spare Parts Manual and the wiring diagram. All the wires are now installed ready to connect to the switch, and these should be my next to last questions (on wiring)!

How exactly is the switch clamped to the shell, to hold it in and prevent it turning?
There's a small cut-out at each of the 2 switch studs, are they relevant?
There are 2 tiny holes in the shell, around the switch cut-out. What are they for?
Is the switch earthed to the shell or other earth point?

Many thanks
Dave G

The switch was not installed when I bought the Dragonfly, so any guidance will be most gratefully received.


eddie

Dave,
           The lighting/ignition switch was originally fitted in a rubber sleeve in the headlamp shell - the whole assembly being tight enough to prevent it turning. I made a new sleeve for mine by cutting 1/2" off the the top of an old fork gaiter.
  All terminals on the switch are on the live side of the circuit, so there should not be any connection between the switch and the headlight shell.

  Regards,
                 Eddie.


BrmBrm

Thankyou Eddie.
I'm experimenting with everything from rubber beading to the top edge of a Yoghhurt pot!

patrickwhitty

On my Dragonfly the switch is fitted with a piece of black leather, maybe from an old glove. Fairly thin anyway. It works well enough although the switch sometimes swivels round a bit. It puzzled me at first because someone has marked the nacelle with 'OFF' in black marker but the mark doesn't always correspond to the same bit of switch.
Patrick

yosemite

Would this be the sort of thing required, fits around the light switch, holds it in place to make the switch quite tight in the nacelle casting, on an indian enfield bullet also protects the switch wiring from shorting on the bullet casting which is quite thick where the switch is on the bullet (if you need sizes to check can measure mine)

<<https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROYAL-ENFIELD-AMMETER-LIGHT-SWITCH-RUBBER-RING-140248/383578204277?hash=item594f0ae875:g:z~oAAOSwP4Nc6SE2>>

Paul

BrmBrm

Thanks everybody.
I've ordered the RE one, at 50p, I'll check the size when it arrives if postage not too much.
I was trying to arrive at whatever arrangement Douglas came up with, using what bits of beading etc . I have to hand.
What I deduced by coincidence was something like RE use, and I can't make that without sticking some parts together.
So lets see if the RE part works OK.
Many thanks,
Dave G

Sgtbiro

Hi Dave can you please let me know how you get on as have yet to come to that part of my restoration.
Cheers kevin

Roys rider

I attach a photo of what I have done. I couldn't believe that the switch was a push fit as on my other one (held in with a wrap of insulting tape!). It seems to work but for how long I am not sure only done 20 miles so far.





Image orientation fixed - Dave, 8th July 2020

eddie

The above photo shows the later type Miller switch (with spade connectors) that was produced after production of the Dragonfly had ceased. Miller also produced a sub-harness to convert to the spade connectors - the main harness just needed trimming back and terminating with bullet connectors to match the sub-harness.

   Regards,
                  Eddie.

BrmBrm

Thanks for your advice everybody.
I'm waiting for some bits.
Couldn't get a reply from a supplier re the RE boot or sleeve but obviousley it's the same sort of application.
I've ordered some bits and partly made a bkt to locate on the 2x 4BA studs on the switch, to be covered in shrink tube when finished.
Also waiting for 2x male/female nylon standoffs to go on the 2 studs, on which to mount the bkt.
Also trying  to get beading or something with a 1mm thick leg to line/cover the flange of the hole in the shell.
Hopefully all is then insulated.
Also ordered some boot lace terminals to go in the switch wire 'clamps' to try.
Also some small male spade connectors to grind the spades with a circular end to go in each switch terminal.
Also ring terminals under the terminal screw heads rather than the terminal clamps.

In other words I'm trying everything, bar silicone!

I've made it harder on myself by not using bullet connectors on the wiring to the switch. I'm wiring direct into the switch, so need a removable/ re-usable method of switch mounting.

Will let you know if any of the methods prove good.






eddie

The original harness just had bare ends on the wires to the switch. I have always soldered up the ends of the wires so that the clamp screws have something better to bite into - plus it reduces the chance of any frayed ends touching something they shouldn't!

   Regards,
                  Eddie.

BrmBrm

Yes Eddie, better than bare wires.
Still waiting for connectors, but am thinking that soldered ring connectors may be best because they'll be further away from the shell. Well see.

BrmBrm

Thanks everybody for your help.
Still waiting for a replacement nylon stand-off.
But the photos are where I'm up to.
I'll mod. the bkt ends and cover with shrink insulation, but am waiting for a replacement nylon stand-off first.








Image orientation fixed - Dave, 15 July 2020