Author Topic: Removing the generator on a dragonfly  (Read 170 times)

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Offline andy1303

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Removing the generator on a dragonfly
« on: 19 Jul 2019 at 20:46 »
Hi,

A previous owner of my dragonfly has extended the generator cables with cables of different colours. Unfortunately the joints are within the timing cover. I would like to check the colours they have used, but would prefer not to have to remove the whole timing cover, as I believe is recommended in the maintenance manual. Can I simply remove the generator cover and the stator with it, or is there a reason to remove the timing case first?

Thanks

Andy

Offline eddie

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Re: Removing the generator on a dragonfly
« Reply #1 on: 20 Jul 2019 at 06:24 »
Andy,
          It is possible to remove just the generator cover, but you will probably damage the generator leads in the process. With time, the insulation becomes very rigid and the flexing as you remove it will probably crack it. This, of course, wont be a problem if you are replacing the lead anyway! If you can source some, use silicon rubber covered cable, as this wont harden with the heat. You will also find that the special grommet in the timing chest is no longer available. I use a standard grommet that fits the case, then build up the diameter of the cable with successive layers of heat shrink sleeving until it is a good fit in the grommet.
   Lastly, if you make your own gasket for the generator cover, make sure you punch all 6 holes in it - it's surprising how many owners have forgotten the other 2 holes and either got no oil to the crank or no breathing from the crankcase, or both!

Regards,
               Eddie.

Offline andy1303

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Re: Removing the generator on a dragonfly
« Reply #2 on: 20 Jul 2019 at 20:53 »
Thanks Eddie, much appreciated.
I saw your reply earlier and popped to the garage and and managed to get it out. It turns out the cables have been replaced completely, so I'll have to replace them, and re-solder direct to the coils. Neither Auto Electrical Supplies or Vehicle Wiring Products do cable with a silicone jacket, but their thin wall cable ( https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/70/category/114 ) is rated from -40 to +105 deg C - do you think that'll cover the engine temperatures?
I planned to use PVC sleeving to tidy the exit from the casing, and keep the cables tidy up to the rectifier, but I see there's a heatproof version that may be more suitable - it'll also make sealing at the grommet easier.
As for the gasket - there wasn't one, so I'll look at purchasing some gasket material - any recommendations?

Thanks again

Andy