Weave

[yosemite]

Just had the t35 out for a short run.   A few problems to sort out,  was charging initially then stopped, think the voltage regulator may be faulty and  front brake requires alot of effort for little effect. these should be fairly easy to sort I think.


After a couple of miles I was going up a fairly steep incline at about 10mph when the bike's  bars started to shake violently, I'd guess that is probably either wheel bearing , head bearings , swinging arm bearings or torsionbars/ linkages or a combination of all of them.
Does anyone have a suggestion of a prime suspect or am I going to get to know the vagaries of a douglas roling chassis intimately.
as a side issue went to fill in the membership form but can't find the engine number, cases don't appear ground or filed away maybe I am looking in the wrong place

[eddie]

Check out the front wheel spindle. First, release the clamp bolt on the RH link - fully tighten the wheel spindle nut ( it should securely clamp up the hub assembly) - then retighten the clamp bolt. Fully tightened, the 2 fork links should move as a pair (rather than independently). While you are tightening the front wheel spindle nut, get someone to apply the front brake - this will help to self-centre the brakeplate and give you a more effective brake (I have opened out the centre hole in the top hat bearing on my bikes to get more adjustment).

  Regards,
                Eddie.

[yosemite]

Thanks Eddie
had a quick look after tea, Think that there is a little play on the front wheel, either bearings or linkage. will set a  dti up to check tomorrow  to try to see which it is. As for the brake the cable adjuster at the front wheel is screwed right up and I think the return spring is coilbound with the brake full on so to me that looks like I am going to need to replace the front shoes (the cam lever is past 90 degrees to the cable  before brakes are applied). Can any one suggest a reliable parts supplier?

[eddie]

With Douglas front brakes there is often slight play in the wheel bearings - this seldom gets any worse and shouldn't cause any problems.
  When you take the brake shoes out, you will probably find there is still some 'meat' on the linings. The cam end of the shoe should have a sheet steel facing on it. These are folded from 18gauge steel sheet and often get distorted with continual use. If you replace them with new ones made from 14 gauge (2mm) steel, you will get more adjustment on the cable.

Regards,
             Eddie.

[yosemite]

Had theb front wheel out last week to replace tube, dont recall any excessive wear on shoes , If there was I'd have done something then, cant recall seeing a shim under shoes but was not looking at thm just checked they were clean, and cam was operating freely. will leave it till I get the tank for the BSA back at end of weekend and get that off bike lift,then I'll start going over the douglas without having to kneel on the floor. It's a shame as I wanted to get out on it so I knew that it was ok. Still I suppose its one way to get to know my way around the bike.