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T6 Clutch

Started by Chris (Sprinter), 19 May 2017 at 21:06

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Chris (Sprinter)

Hello all,

Is it possible that my clutch slip problems are caused by the rivets that hold the sprocket to the drive plate are loose? My understanding of the clutch is that if the rivets are loose, then the crowded ball thrust bearing for the central bearing sleeve to drive plate will be working but the pressure won't be acting on the friction material because the rivets being loose allows the friction material to move away from the clutch back plate.

I hope this makes sense to someone. It is not so easy to explain.

Thanks in advance.



Hi Chris,
             The first thing you need to do is to check that you have some free movement on the clutch operating arm. To do this, remove the cover plate from the bottom of the primary chaincase, to give access to the lever. If there is no movement, the operating lever is probably running back until it contacts the bottom of the ramps on the release mechanism. If this is the case, you will need to remove the flyheel to gain access to the release mechanism - the fixed part of which is just a ring with three rollers attached - the crankcase has dowel that locates in one of three slots in the back of the release ring - to gain more clearance, you will need to turn the ring in an anti-clockwise direction.
   To get the flywheel off, you need to unscrew the large chrome nut in the centre of the flywheel - this retains the spring pressure plate and 6 springs. With that removed, you will find a special crankshaft nut that incorporates the extension that takes the chrome nut, and the nipple for lubricating the clutch release - this nut should be retained (loosely) in the flywheel by a screwed collar in the counterbore in the centre of the flywheel. Unscrewing the nut self-extracts the flywheel. The flywheel should come away complete - leaving just the release mechanism in place.
  If you already have some free movement of the lever, then you may just need to load up the springs a little more by screwing the large chrome nut in a little further (don't do this if there is no free play, as it will put a permanent load on the release bearing, causing premature wear).
  Hope this helps,

Chris (Sprinter)

Thank-you for the advice Eddie.

I have made the adjustments that you have recommended. Now the bike won't stop! What is the next step?



How many notches did you have to move the lever to get freeplay? I don't mean freeplay at the operating lever on the handlebars, the actuating lever behind the flywheel is the first concern. Perhaps you moved it 2 notches but only needed to move it 1 notch. A little goes a long way with this set up. The fact that it now doesn't release now at least shows the clutch is capable of holding.


Chris (Sprinter)

The clutch actuating mechanism was in the middle of the of the three slots. I took Eddie's advice to move it anti-clockwise.   Oh yes, the clutch is definitely capable of holding! It does free off when i use rhe kick start though.


Chris (Sprinter)

A final report that after some fine adjustments and a some good miles of test ride, the clutch is operating well. The bike pulls well and i have confidence to pull out into faster traffic. All ready for a leisurely ride to Bristol for the Cavalcade. Good weather please.