Dougie,
Having had a second look at the drawing, I've noticed a couple of errors! The O.D. of the tube should be 1.375" (not 1.325"), and the measurement over the outside of the bend will be 7.38" (not 7.33") if the centreline describes a 6.00" diameter. Another observation - taking into account the springback when manipulating stainless steel, a pipe bent around a standard 2D former will probably spring out to near on the correct radius!
Regards,
Eddie.
Thanks Eddie, I appreciate the QC! I had not noticed that dimensional error.
It's a new solidworks drawing to fabricate replicas - and I'm updating it before sending to the mandrel bender.
When I have offered the new pipes up to fit, I'll trim both ends to length to suit the mounting points and cylinder offset, and ensure mudguard clearance on full lock! And then place the captive nuts for the heat shields.
All this requires making and re-attaching new silencer hanger brackets which have been cut off the subframe, which will be slotted to allow some adjustment if the bend isn't perfectly parallel or springs out a little.
I have not decided yet whether to splash out on fabrication of smaller diameter longer silencers or use the Burgess or Dragonfly replicas I have.
I'd be interested to know the technique you used to get the domed ends of the silencer body on that beautiful replica you posted above?
On the cylinder head end, the steel pipes had a welded collar - but I plan to use finned clamps from a Triumph T140, which are also 1 3/8" and reasonably unobtrusive.
Cheers
Ian.