Douglas - For Sale Items

Douglas 1913 Model P motorcycle

Douglas - Wanted Items

Douglas 1915 3 Spd-Gearbox and Clutch

Support & How to Join

Side Panel Notices

Quick Comments

Reminders, links to interesting topics, bump your own topic, quick comments or any short message of interest to members. Try it out!
Please note - 500 character current limit


Today at 01:04:34
Welcome to the new site!

Recommended viewing for a fast start...
 - Quick Tour of the Front Page
 - Quick Tour of the new Attachments

Please see the bottom post in this topic for more info.

intake manifold induction pipe

Started by kev, 13 Oct 2015 at 20:39

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.


  1926 ew 
  my intake pipes...  are lookin pretty rough...the alloy part is easy enough to get back to good...but the iron tubes...
  was this item cast with  the iron pipes part of the mould??
can the iron pipes be removed...??  the carby pipe is ok...I could clean that up...the long tubes...looks like maybe half the iron has rusted away... just foil left...   the dents could be removed by pulling a ball thru......???
after all the work I could easily see the tubes just....disintegrate...
  before I have a go at it...   any advice??    i could just cut off the iron pipes...bore the alloy and epoxy new in place...
  be nice to have bright smooth nickel plated tubes...

     and still lookin for that front axle length

Daren W Australia

too many dougli not enough time!

Alan Cun

Yes Kev The manifolds can be plated by specialist chrome platers in one piece but you have to ring around and explain the alloy and steel combination.

regards Alan


thanks for the replies...
I just bought another manifold from hazelton...not quite as rusty as the one I have...and not as good as the one he has listed now latest doesn't have the flared end... which is easy enough to put on
just both manifolds I have...the iron parts are just rusted back to foil...and pretty beat up...  after a long look...I think I can set up in my mill and bore out enough to fit some new tube in...either epoxy the tubes in or there are some serious metal to metal glues...or if a neat fit...just an o ring and silly con???  I just thought somebody else must have been down this road...

the ebay axle looks good...but it is a different hub...mine has the drum fixed...fitting up with some ball races and spacers is easy enough...I just need the axle length before I start to be able to finish in the right forks look great ...but could easy be an inch or so narrow or wide...???
the brake backing plates...are they the same front and back??  looks easy enough to make from some plate and bar..and a bit of welding

this dougy will once again oil the roads of queensland
thanks for your help



If by flared end you mean at the gland nuts, I do not think they rolled the edge of the tube from the factory. Or if they did, the design was superseded on later EWs. See this post:

The Flanged Collars (#1008-1) slip on, and make plating the gland nuts and manifold a little simpler. You still have the ally muff that the plater has to mask-off. There are still enough EW inlet manifold about that I do not think anyone has gone to great extents to salvage one that is really rusted.

The hub in the eBay listing is a for the detachable brake drum models. They came along a little later, first on the rear and then both ends. It is a similar hub to that used on the CW, but there the conical spline was narrower and just used for mounting the sprocket.

The EW spares list shows a common part number for the front and rear brake backing plate.


Alan Cun

Kev,  Dont know if I told you but if you are re-spoking your wheels and plating the hubs to a better standard the brake drum and opposite spoke plate are easily pressed apart in 3 pieces.

You may consider making axles to suit the front wheel. They are reduced to 7/16 LH thread and internal bearing size. I dont like the idea of the brake side not having a lock nut and relying on the outer axle fork nut to tightened to the fork. I like to change the bearing distance on the axle and recess into the brake plate a lock nut. There is also a spacer about 1/2 between the dust cap adjuster nut to centre the wheel. If you dont have the tapered bearings which if avail cost a fortune I have in the past used common roller bearings which fit the axle and with a length of stainless strap around the outer race press in nicely. Oh yeh and if you are short of wheel nuts, LH wheel nuts from Chrysler Valiants 7/16 unf 20 tpi.



thanks heapsfor the information..

the wheels I,ll just spray ,m least until I have a bike..
I will make the axle.. maybe just put all together on the hub...and make that fit the fork...just be real nice to at least have the original axle length to start to work from..
then at least I would know my fork spacing is close...distance between legs..
the bearings and spacers.. I have put together a few ajs and matchys..  and had to make something to replace the taper bearings and axle for those...front and back..was easy enough...good practice threading those thin nuts
swapped a few late and early Harley wheels..same for those...
yeah...never thought about the dodge wheels and their 7/16 left handers...that must be why all those old valiant have the wheels missing on one side
if you ever need and easy supplier for odd 7/16 left...traceys in pommyland are great..

got some great new  handlebars made at Burleigh bars...

oily bloke

I have some old EW spindles which are beyond help but I will dig them out over the weekend and post the lengths. Front and rear are different.
I made a new Pr and fitted metric roller bearings with thin wall sleeves to suit. I used 10mm Rh 1mm pitch threads both sides. Plenty of miles and no problems.


thanks for that andy..
greatly appreciated...not a big challenge to engineer...but so nice to know what it was supposed to be..
esp as I need the length to set the wheel space width on my forks...

oily bloke

I lied! I cannot find the spindles but I have found a drawing of the new ones I made. A bit rough but you should get the idea.
I used 6003 metric bearings with thin wall sleeves to fit the hub.
The threaded ends are 12mm x 1mm pitch both RH threads not 10mm as I said in my previous post.
I made both spindles the same. The front extends a little from the fork blades but so did the original.
Hope that helps.



mate you are a legend.
  that is big help...I just didn't know what the actual width of the forks are supposed to be...a bit wide or narrow...likely mess up the way they are supposed to work...

I,ll go downstairs and check the width on what I have...

you have 52mm threaded on one side and 57 threaded on the other??   do you have nuts on the inside of the fork...???  up against the bearings??

take a look at my wheel ...see if I can work out your system..  I have changed out al the tapered bearings on my ajs,s and matchlesses..was an easy enough task

oily bloke

the 52 & 57 is the thread length. The longer side is to cater for offset brake side. A nut is loctited to retain the bearings either side and locked off with the outer wheel nut.
The dust collar was fabricated from a stainless egg shaped egg timer off ebay for a couple of quid and I shimmed the brake plate to suit to cater for wear.
My theory is that if the blades are assembled parallel to each other at the head stock and they are parallel at the spindle then you can adjust the spindle to suit what you have.
I would suggest you measure the inner distance between bearings in the hub to ensure yours is the same as these bikes are nearly 90!