Author Topic: Dragonfly Front Forks  (Read 4611 times)

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Offline Les Mills

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Dragonfly Front Forks
« on: 02 Jun 2013 at 17:14 »
Having got my Dragonfly to fire  on both cylinders I went for a test run, after about 8 miles the clutch "played up".  It felt as though there was a hugh kink in the cable making operation so stiff I had to physically push the clutch lever home, on doing so it would bite home quickly making a very jerky pull away or gear change.  Has anyone suffered similar problems?
                               Regards,
                                                        Les
« Last Edit: 07 Nov 2014 at 08:07 by Les Mills »

Offline eddie

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Re: Dragonfly Clutch
« Reply #1 on: 02 Jun 2013 at 19:37 »
Les,
       From the symptoms you describe, it could be simply a dry or frayed cable or more seriously, flats on the three rollers that run on the clutch cam, or seized up rollers. If it is the rollers, I would expect it to happen all the time - not just after 8 miles. Take off the clutch inspection plate and operate the clutch. If the lever does not return, check inside the clutch inspection hole to see if there is any slack in the cable - if there is, then the problem lies within the clutch withdrawal gear. If the bottom of the cable is still taut, then the problem lies within the cable itself. Try lubricating it - I prefer to unhook the cable from the handlebar lever so that it stands upright as it comes out of the nacelle. Wrap a piece of 1"wide PVC tape around the ferrule to form a funnel - fill this with engine oil and leave it overnight to find it's way down the cable.
     If the withdrawal mechanism is causing the problem, try applying some oil to the rollers - you should be able to reach them with some polythene tube to extend the spout of the oil can. From memory, I think you can see the location of 2 of the rollers - you will just have to let a little oil drain around the clutch spigot to get to the last roller. If this does not work, you will probably have to remove the flywheel to effect a repair - this means parting the engine and gearbox. It is possible to get the gearbox out without moving the engine - you have to remove the toolbox and the swinging arm pivot bolt - the swinging arm can then be moved back (without letting go of the suspension units) enough to get the gearbox out.
     Good luck,
               Regards,
                               Eddie.

Offline Doug

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Re: Dragonfly Clutch
« Reply #2 on: 02 Jun 2013 at 22:00 »
I concur, dry rollers can feel like a dodgy cable, 'gritty' action, and lack of return. Besides oiling the rollers, I have had luck on the one occasion this occurred away from home to use a sparing shot of WD40 or similar aerosol. Besides the rollers, a little behind the release arm and the boss it centers on would not be amiss. The difference is amazing. A little goes a long way; no need to flood the area. So should not be an issue with getting any lubricant on the clutch.

-Doug

Offline Les Mills

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Re: Dragonfly Clutch
« Reply #3 on: 04 Jun 2013 at 10:04 »
Hello Eddie and Doug,
                                       Many thanks for your suggestions, unfortunately things are no better, hence the bike will be for sale in the next edition of New Conrod.
                                                         Regards,
                                                                          Les

Offline Les Mills

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Re: Dragonfly front forks
« Reply #4 on: 06 Nov 2014 at 17:11 »
Thought it was about time I got round to straightening the frame and fixing the clutch.  On the forks the "top cover plate" No 43 always sat about 3/8" above the nacelle instead of flush.  The problem may be the "top plug" N0 87 which is proud of the stem by about the same amount .  How is the plug fixed in the tube?  Should the plug be flush with the tube?

                                Regards,
                                                       Les
 

Offline Les Mills

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Re: Dragonfly front forks
« Reply #5 on: 07 Nov 2014 at 08:05 »
Had a rethink during the night, my problem probably lies elsewhere.  The lower cup and cone has been replaced by a taper roller bearing, this must allow the stem to rise further up the spout.  Will have a look later to see if spacers are viable or a return to cup and cone.  Any comments spacers.

                       Regards,
                                        Les

Offline David Lawrence

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Re: Dragonfly Front Forks
« Reply #6 on: 07 Nov 2014 at 12:23 »
Les,
Just noticed your comment regarding the Dragonfly forks, the bottom race is correct it should be a cone and taper race the cone section is often a very tight fit in the frame housing,  there should be an aluminium dust cover below the race on the fork, but it is not clearly shown in the spares book.
The part number for the race is 27256 item no. 33. The "hidden" dust cover is 28777 item no. 32
Are you sure the misalignment of the top cover is simply incorrect or overtightened rubber spacers under the front tank mounting or the nacelle adjustment on the slots in the nacelle? these are also not clear in the spares book, plate 21.

Dave

Offline eddie

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Re: Dragonfly Front Forks
« Reply #7 on: 07 Nov 2014 at 12:25 »
Les,
        The taper roller bottom bearing is standard on the Dragonfly - only the early T35's were fitted with the cup and cone bearing. From memory, the inner should be a 1985 or 1988 and the outer is a 1932.
   With regard to the plug in the top of the stem - the height can be adjusted - it is normally just a light press fit in the stem.

   Regards,
                Eddie.

Offline Les Mills

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Re: Dragonfly Front Forks
« Reply #8 on: 07 Nov 2014 at 17:06 »
Many thanks Eddie,

                                     I've enjoyed working on the bike, most thing are very straightforward.  Hopefully will sort the clutch out tomorrow.

                                     Best regards,
                                                                Les

Offline Les Mills

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Re: Dragonfly Front Forks
« Reply #9 on: 09 Nov 2014 at 10:40 »
Many thanks Dave,
                                   Have only just noticed your comments, will take heed of them on rebuilding.

                                              Regards,
                                                              es