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Douglas 1915 3 Spd-Gearbox and Clutch

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2024-06-11, 20:02:05
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EW gearbox again

Started by tck, 08 Apr 2013 at 12:56

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tck

The weather has finally allowed me back in the workshop (a month late)
I had just managed to rebuild my EW gearbox (with some help from here) before it closed in
I have fitted a better lay shaft as supplied by the club to stop it coming out of second
all seemed OK
but when I fitted it in the frame and rotated the back wheel there seems a lot of resistance (out of gear) to turning the big chain wheel
its a smooth resistance like a slipping clutch only 2nd and neutral is selectable and the rods cannot select anything else.
I only saw one problem during assembly which was the position of the thin washer like spacer in relation to the two rows of roller on the final drive bearing failing any clues I put the washer on top of the two stack high rollers.
Apart from that it all looked good as it went together but now.....
any ideas before I have to scoop all that new grease out again :-( the Banbury looms

bmwmyplace

Hi re the grease you asked about before,  here is an option I use in my 1926 BMW gearbox,  it flows well , in our cliamte anyway cheers peter


Taken from Molbil web siite

Mobilux EP 004 and Mobilux EP 023 are particularly suitable for the lubrication of enclosed gears and bearings in poorly sealed gear cases they can also be used in many other industrial applications where conventional gear oils cannot be retained in gear cases, chain cases, etc. because of leakage due to worn or missing seals. The recommended operating temperature range is -25 to 120ºC for Mobilux EP 004 and -15 to 120ºC for Mobilux EP 023.

oily bloke

Hi,
Sounds possibly one of the bearings is not fully home pushing one of the shafts out of line. Try removing the outer cover and disconnect the gear selector from the arms to the tank and see if you can select. You should be able to select all gears whilst rotating the mainshaft and hand pressure on the selector arm. If it wont select then it is re-strip time. If it does then loosly replace outer cover with bolts finger tight and attempt again. continue with this until the outer cover bolts are fully tightened up. I found when rebuilding my box that the modern bearings, although metric and a direct swap, were very slightly wider than the 20's version and the box was fine until it was all tightened down. The remedy was to relieve a few thou out of the bearing housing. failing this strip the box and start again. making sure everything is selecting and/or engaging before proceeding to the next stage.
Hope that helps
Andy

Doug

#3
The thin washer goes between the two rows of rollers to provide the required end guidance. A hard washer against the gear case and against the layshaft provide the other faces. What is happening is the ends of the individual rollers are rubbing past each other. While not actually tripping or catching, it is causing the rollers to cant slightly, creating negative axial clearance, and possibly tight radial clearance (though I doubt they are able to twist that much). This is likely the source of the excessive friction you are feeling. Its getting jammed, with perhaps the rollers skidding around and not rolling as they are pinched. Unless the sleeve gear is like new, there should be a wear witness mark between the roller tracks hinting at where the washer(s) originally should be.

Do not operate the gearbox with the rollers abutting each other side to side, hoping that it will ease itself in. It won't. It needs to come apart and the rows of crowded rollers properly segregated. Narrow rollers need to be guided at both ends by running in a groove, between two continuous faces, or guided by a cage.

Of course, it is possible the excessive friction is still due to something else. But you really need to get that thin washer put in the proper place. The only reason I can think of that it would manifest itself after you placed it in the frame is simply time, or being pulled around by the rear chain is placing a side load on the sleeve gear and aggravating the issue with the rollers (or whatever the root cause of the friction is.)


-Doug


[Add more comments and clarify. 09Apr13, Doug]

tck

Thanks to the replies so far
Its time to delve again
the problem only became apparent when the addition of chains allowed me to easily move the rear sprocket relative to the chain wheel in a neutral. rotation of the pair together via the chain wheel shows no resistance.
I just could not find how the washer and rollers related when first taken apart they were a heap inside the greasy interior