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Started by tck, 22 Nov 2012 at 14:39

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I have a new lay shaft and gear to fit to my 1926  EW. it is a believe a common fitting to rectify jumping out of gear
I have taken off the covers and removed easily the first (I assume bottom gear) from the mainshaft with bearing and spacer washer
things are not so easy on the upper lay shaft the gear and bearing do not want to come off with medium pressure on the extractor
Is this the right sequence? should I apply more force?
should I release the selector arm -indeed can I do that from the top/outside  of the box?
can I push the mainshaft out towards the primary side? do I need to?
I am unsure about how to proceed - I know the 'manual' will tell me nothing :-)


Hi, I have carried out the same upgrade and found it very efficient.

After removing the inner cover, disengage the selector arm, you should then be able to remove the gear cluster all in one, without any undue force. I would recommend having a container underneath the final drive side as the roller bearings may fall through. The bearings on the lay shaft can be removed quite easily in the normal manner.


Hey guys, sorry i dont have any advice on your problem tck and i dont want to hijack your Topic, but i was checking out the photos roy added and i have a question for either of you.
Is the bolt that the kickstart return spring is ancored to in the second photo the right ancor for the spring? I only ask because when i took the cover off of my gearbox the spring was ancored to the bolt above the quadrant.  I guess it shouldnt matter but it just good for me to compare. Thanks.


Thanks Roy for your help and pics
I think my box likes to hold on to its secrets :frown:

I have the box on the bench I cannot see how to "disengage the selector" I have removed the indent plunger and oil pipe from side and taken out  the top nipple and housing( which seems to have  no internal mechanical content) what else could retain the selector?
how does the selector disengage? unless I have missed a hidden screw is it just a question of banging on the plug at the back? a action I am reluctant to take

oily bloke

I think I can help. I have a dismantled EW box on the bench. DONT HAMMER ANYTHING. The selector arm is retained by a slotted nut under the ali cap on the top of the rear of the box. I could not get it out on the box I am working on for a mate or my own box either. The arm inside the box has a slider which actuates the selector fork. If you joggle the selector arm and rotate the main shaft you will find a position where the slider can be eased from the recess in the arm. It would be beneficial if the bearings were removed as this gives you more joggling space. Once that is off the whole lot slides out. Beware of the loose rollers when you withdraw the assembly.
Hope that helps.
I am in Surrey so if you need further help and you can get to me, PM me and I will help if I can.

oily bloke

The spring in the picture is correctly placed on the bolt and nut that acts as the quadrant rest.


Ok Thanks
Hidden secret is the word - I will start by looking under the alloy cap


Yes your right hidden under alloy cap is a nut which I undid and removed to little effect
I can move selector in full normal arc and rotate shafts but at no point does any slackness of selector arm occur I suppose I could remove layshaft bearing and 1st gear but they are very tight and to quote Roy "disengage selector and you should remove the cluster as a whole"
so I think I should persevere in 'disengagement' question is how?
I note the threaded portion of the spindle under the alloy cap where nut was rotates with the selector arm so should I tap on that with a soft drift or is there another hidden lock system?
Ive worked on Triumph,Vincent,Burman,Norton,Scott even Albion but this box this beats them all!

oily bloke

As I said, I was unable to remove the nut under the ally cap so I proceeded as described and had no problems with both the boxes. I presume the sprockets and woodruffe keys are off?


Well with a few more pictures and advice from 'oily bloke' the cluster is out!
the main cause of the problem was the bearing on the layshaft on the back of the gearbox was very tight eventually once I knew what the box looked like inside I added enough force to push the bearing out of the case even out of the box it was a struggle to remove the bearing and then the cog from the layshaft.
As for the selector shaft across the top of the box its still in position I  dont need to touch it and I hope to never have to find out what holds it there.
I can see what a far better job the replacement layshaft and gear is, all I need to get now are some 3mm woodruff keys and we are on to assembly.
Thanks to all who helped. If I had time I would draw up an assembly drawing,-second thoughts: no I won't I would have to find out what holds that damm selector shaft in place :-)


On my gearbox, the selector shaft had two nuts.  Both needed a special tool for the slots (which I had to make).
The outer nut was a lock nut and was smaller in size.
Once the inner nut is removed the shifter can be removed easily.

Good luck
Jonathan H.


Just to confirm the new replacement layshaft does indeed take 4X 3mm woodruff keys but if standard keys they need to be reduced in height to accomodate the two end gear keyways