Rear suspension

[dragonmk5]

Am about to re-assemble the rear suspension to my Mk4 and have found that one torsion bar has 3 shims and the other 4.
I think I have been looking at it for too long now, as I can't decide if I should be providing clearance  BETWEEN the end of the T/bar and lower operating link, or locking the T/bar TO the link!! Can any-one please put me out of my misery??

[eddie]

Hi,
     According to the spares book, the number of shims is listed as 'as required'. Originally, the torsion bars would have been a neat fit in both the front anchor and the operating lever, but may now be somewhat looser! My preferred method of assembly is to try the operating lever on either end of the torsion bar to find which is the better fit - then fit the anchor to the other end (applying a little 'Loctite' to take up any slack). With the anchor fully in place and the retaining bolt and washer fitted, install the torsion bar in the frame. Next, check that there is a facing washer between the operating lever bronze bush and the frame lug. Fit the operating lever to the torsion bar, and fit shims to the protruding end of the torsion bar (there should be a small amount of endfloat on the lever) and tighten the retaining bolt and washer.
   Hope this helps,
     Regards,
                  Eddie.

[dragonmk5]

Thanks for the info Eddie - just what I needed. Because my T/bars are fairly badly corroded (despite the bike being "fully refurbished and part of an exotic collection, housed in a museum in Scotland"), I swapped them end for end as you advised, so will leave as is and apply your advice in all other aspects. The other mod I carried out was to replace the spherical bearings in the links with rubber bushes. I understand a number of members have also done this and I expect it works well, but having done it I have to say I prefer the original design so will be looking to buy another pair of link assemblies for future fitment.
When I took the pivot pins out of the frame/swinging arm I noted that grease had not been reaching the bushes, so I drilled two holes in the flats and turned a couple of shallow grooves to help the grease get round the bearing.  Both operations were done using carbide tipped tools. The end caps were remade from brass and soldered in so that a proper grease gun can be used to get a decent amount of pressure without blowing the caps out. To enable the use of a decent gr gun I made an adaptor to hold an angled nipple. Once greased, I replaced it with the original. This may be considered to be excessive poncing, but I have a Douglas in bits, and it looks like it won't be on the road any time soon, so I just keep looking for things to do to it!! Sad, eh?