Author Topic: 1913 2 3/4 HP recommissioning  (Read 5144 times)

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Offline Black Sheep

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1913 2 3/4 HP recommissioning
« on: 19 May 2012 at 18:36 »
I will shortly be attempting to start an 1913 2 3/4 HP Douglas which has been lying for a number of years. I have had the EIC mag overhauled and will shortly fit it.
My questions: What should the valve clearances be? What should the ignition timing be? How much oil should I put in the crankcase before starting?
It was all running before being laid up and still has its Banbury Run numbers attached.
Gordon.
P.S. Any hints about riding a bike with 2 gears and no clutch. Could be interesting!

Offline Black Sheep

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Re: 1913 2 3/4 HP recommissioning
« Reply #1 on: 06 Jun 2012 at 12:43 »
Well, it (the 1913 Model O) runs. Next thing is the road test. A question. The left handlebar lever controls what appears to be a crankcase decompressor. Is it? If not, what is it and what is it used for. :question:

Offline John W

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Re: 1913 2 3/4 HP recommissioning
« Reply #2 on: 07 Jun 2012 at 13:55 »
Hi,
i'm new to this site, but to answer your question yes the lever is a decompressor.

The cam is within the timing chest, and the lever lifts the valves from within there.

I too have got a pair of Dougies running this last weekend after a number of years in storage.

Can't wait to get out on them now  8)

hope the above helps.
regards,
     John W.

Offline Black Sheep

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Re: 1913 2 3/4 HP recommissioning
« Reply #3 on: 09 Jun 2012 at 09:48 »
One more question... How is the 2 speed gearbox lubricated? I have a reprint of the Douglas handbook on its way but it hasn't arrived yet.

Offline philpjuk

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Re: 1913 2 3/4 HP recommissioning
« Reply #4 on: 15 Jun 2012 at 13:47 »
Valves should be set to the thickness of a good quality buisness card! I use sae 140 in my gearbox,I have read you must not use lard or windmill oil! to change gear,squeeze the valve lifter and "feel" it into top,changing down is a little more tricky and if you are stopping it is as well stopping in top on the valve lifter,if you really need first then just shut the throttle a little and with a quick pull on the valve lifter pop it into first.Dont let it worry you,get a little practice,Im sure the squaddies in france gave them plenty of hammer with no real problems.Keep your trouser legs out of the chain!phil.

Offline Black Sheep

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Re: 1913 2 3/4 HP recommissioning
« Reply #5 on: 16 Jun 2012 at 21:26 »
The Model O has been out and about for a few test rides now. It goes remarkably well - much better than I expected, romping up hills and fairly flying on the level. Smoke levels are now down to what they should be after the initial cautios over-oiling. I am awaiting the arrival of a pair of new tyres and tubes. I don't know when you could last get Dunlop Cord tyres but the ones on the bike are a bit past their use by date. My only real worry now is having to stop at the bottom of a hill...
Oh, can you still get leather drive belts or is it a case of getting synthetic ones through the vmcc?  I am intending to enter the Scottish Gathering for pre 1930 bikes and it's a 65 mile route. A spare belt seems like a good idea.

Offline phil_h

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Re: 1913 2 3/4 HP recommissioning
« Reply #6 on: 18 Jun 2012 at 22:29 »
Well done BS - keep going out and practising now !
I've had my '13 model R (it has a clutch !) for 3 years now and have done 3 pioneer runs + 3-4 other runs each year.
I run a link-belt and have only recently (saturday - the day before banbury !) had a breakage, which was caused by the clutch not releasing. I  had to do banbury without the clutch and can report that you quickly get the hang of it.
I wouldnt think youd want a leather belt in scottishland with all that wet stuff ... or down here come to mention it ;)
I think the idea of link-belts is nice as you do have a chance of repairing them by the roadside - surely you only need anything stronger for the big bangers.
Mind you, I dont know where to go to replace my spare links !

Offline borleyfolksworth

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Re: 1913 2 3/4 HP recommissioning
« Reply #7 on: 06 Jul 2012 at 21:17 »
Well done chaps. good to hear some more 2/3/4 hp's are out and about.
Have been running them for 30 years so have a vague idea of what they are about. Tappets about 8 thou but as long as they have a clearance thay will work. As mentioned they used them in WW1 and they didn't have time for feeler gauges in the trenches. As long as they rattle they will run. Timing about an 1/8" BTDC retarded. With 95 oct fuel they will stand about 1/2" BTDC advanced before they knock or power drops off.
I have always used continuous combine belts on mine. You can get them from most bearing factors but Anglia Bearings keep all lengths in stock. You have to split the frame to put them on but I put one on a 1919 Model V in 1982 and it is still on and only just showing signs of wear after many miles, many Banbury Runs and several different riders.
Regards Colin

Offline Black Sheep

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Re: 1913 2 3/4 HP recommissioning
« Reply #8 on: 01 Aug 2012 at 18:53 »
The MoT test has been and gone - all went well, the tester looking slightly bemused. With our wonderful summer, I had the chance to check if the belt slipped when wet when climbing hills - it didn't. The only real problem was after I had filled the gearbox with self-levelling grease. Once out on a run and warmed up, the excess emerged from the gearbox as expected. What I didn't know was that it was still emerging as I rode up our newly laid path...Oops! It is being used for runs to the shops as it has a useful carrier. When I was at the local agricultural merchants,  the storeman came out and had a look at the bike and offered to sell me 'proper' plug caps. An offer politely declined. Gordon.

 

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