Request for advice on a 1926 EW

[Simon Giles]

Hello All,

Simon here. I am also new and have what I understand is a 1926 EW engine no YE 10830. It has been restored and I would like any information regarding appropriate fuel and oil plus any other operating and maintenance tips. Very happy to join any clubs.

Regards,
Simon Giles
Auckland NZ



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[Clive]

Hello Giles
I am in Waihi and ride an EW regularly.
 Beautiful restoration did you do it your self ?
 As regards fuel the cheapest is best as they where designed to run on low octane fuel no lead. Oil i use penrite HPR 40 which is a 20/70 multy grade and does a fine job.I am a member of the London Douglas club who over the years have helped with advice and spares also VCCNZ for rallies and camaraderie etc.
Feel free to contact me anytime
Regards
Clive Hallam

[Simon Giles]

Hi Clive,
Thanks very much for your quick reply and sorry it has taken me so long to get back. I did not restore the bike myself but have owned it for 2 years. I now have it at home where I can work on it and think I'm about ready to go for an engine start! Should be interesting....I'll let you know how I get on.
Cheers,
Simon

[Clive]

Hi Simon,
I know your bike its a flyier, its the sports model with detachable heads . Before you start it make sure there is oil in the timing cover yours has a sight glass on the front low down on the forward face this should show oil about half way up it. if not take out the oil transfer plug [ centre of timing cover ]and pour or pump some in this will enable the internal oil pump to get oil to the big ends as soon as you start up. Give the hand pump a couple of squirts till oil is seen dripping in sight glass on the tank top'.prime the carburettor, ignition about half way air closed  throttle just cracked open and give it a kick , if its been assembled correctly it should go.
Regards
Clive
 

[Simon Giles]

Hi Clive,
Sorry about the delay again. Not familiar with forum protocol. Engine  started first try by rolling down hill, all good and let it run about 7 min....checking oil system and playing with controls! All good only issue seems to be fuel... I think it's a problem with the float sticking not allowing appropriate flow to throttle. Could you contact me ph 021 2962092 for a chat?
Regards, Simon

[Simon Giles]

Hi Clive,
I was interested in your comment re 'detachable heads'. Something odd with my engine as the valve stems do not align with the cam followers/tappets...can't find any pictures of what it should look like....any ideas?

Cheers,

Simon

[Doug]

Simon,

The 'sports' version featured detachable heads, subsequently adopted on all lightweights until they switch to the plate head. Irregardless, the tappets do not line up with the valves. That is why the tappet adjusters have such large heads. It allowed them to offset the positions of the cams and the valves to suit each with out being constrained to being coaxial. It might look odd, but it was simple and it works.

Doug

[Simon Giles]

Thanks very much Doug!
It's a relief to know that.
I'm still confused because Clive in his post below dated 30 April says he knows my bike and that it is the 'sports model' with detachable heads.

Is that the whole cylinder barrel and head as well because as you can see from the picture, my bike does not seem have detachable heads?

Cheers,
Simon

[Doug]

Simon,

The detachable head would include the valves and ports. However there would be four bolts holding the head to the cylinder, not to mention a conspicuous cylinder head joint; so you could not mistake it for the one piece barrel and head. The entire assembly will interchange on the crankcase.

The later plate heads followed a more conventional design with the valves and ports cast into the cylinder block.

Sports 350EWs were also advertised as being fitted with aluminum instead of the normal (for the era) cast iron pistons.

Doug

[Simon Giles]

That clears it up for me, thanks again Doug.
Kind Regards,
Simon