Matthew,
If you have the frame drawing, you will note Douglas used a variety of tubing gauges from 8 to 14, and some of the tubes like the front down tubes and top tank tube were taper wall; the end with the thicker wall being towards the headstock. Taper wall tubing is practically a lost art and unlikely to be replicated in this day and age, and you will have to settle for a constant wall thickness. It would behoove you to make the engine rails one gauge heavier than original, as these are prone to be bent on the originals when the machine is used for sprinting. The load on the primary chain tends to pull the engine up towards the transmission. There are few componet drawings for frame tubes. Some like the DT fork strut tube are just listed as 'MS' for Mild Steel. Others like the front down tubes on another model state 'MS [Med. Carb.', sort of a contradiction! Also is states 'A-Quality', what ever that means. No heat treatment spec, so it was used as received, or they had a process convention for all such tubing that they did not bother to document on individual drawings. Drafting standards and conventions were quite variable from firm to firm in those days!
As for the top tube, if you have a bare frame it should be a relatively simple matter to trace the outline on a sheet of cardboard, then using a large compass or trammel do some experimentation and figure out what the radius is. I have done this on other frames, it works quite well. It would seem far less bother than fiberglass molds. I have heard of one replica DT frame that was made by simply welding fitted tubes, no attempt being made to replicate the lugs. But I do not know who had it done, or nor have I seen it to determine how they dealt with the various details.
-Doug