Mk 4 Rear Suspension

[johnm]

I have finally got round to stripping the rear suspension links and whilst they are worn I think I can get away with thick grease initially. I am however in need of some of the outer domed washers. Unfortunately the club spares dept is out of stock, any suggestions for alternatives as I cannot be the first person to need some.
I can not work out if the pivoting bearings in the suspension links are machined in or bearings pressed in I have found some bearings on the web used for shaft drives which may do the job but until I know what I am dealing with I will not investigate further
Look forward to hearing from you
jm

[Chris]

Hi Johnm
      I cannot help with the dished washers but regarding the pivoted bearings they are neither machined in or pressed in. They are in the form of a hardened steel ball with flats on each side. After the bolt is removed, the flattened ball can be turned on its side and extracted through the shaped aperture in the side of the link. Wear is normal and can be quite extensive between the ball and the internal housing in which it pivots but I have been told that this wear does not matter much and many machines have it without detriment. There is a modification that some members have carried out and that is to grind away the sides of the slot at each side and each end of the link so that the hole is then circular. A "Metalastic" bonded rubber bush (ex Jaguar car but do not know which part) can then be pressed into each eye. Some members say that this is OK while others have given the opinion that the loading on this is too great.   Chris.

[eddie]

Hi John,
             The Metalastic bush in question is from the top eye of the engine stabiliser on a Mk2 or Mk10 Jaguar.
     If you should decide to stay with the original ball joints, make sure the dished washers, etc. are assembled correctly. The dished washers should be fitted with the dished side to the links and with the larger washer next to the link and the smaller one to the outside of it. Ideally, the link and washers as an assembly should measure the same as the width of the 'ball' and 2 spacer tubes. Also make sure these small spacer tubes are fitted with the slotted end towards the link - this makes sure the grease exits under the dished washers.
                                   Regards,
                                                 Eddie.

[johnm]

Many thanks for your replies
In view of the comments made I will stay with what I have and not look for more work
I will however have to look for one set of domed washers and spacers as I have either mislaid or they were not complete in the first place.
I have now come across another problem when assembling the frame. I purchased a replacement frame last year which I believe a Mk 4 although it is unnumbered but it does not have the lower brackets on the vertical tubes for the rear sub frame that carries the rear mudguard and seat so is there a different sub frame or have I got something other than a Mk 4

[eddie]

John,
         The early Marks (Mk1, Mk3 and Mk3 Sports) had frames with a plate lug on the back of the vertical tube, just above and behind the swinging arm pivot, for the attachment of the rear subframe. Later frames (Mk4, Mk5 and 'Plus') had the subframe attached to a boss on the cast rear bottom lug. Quite a lot of the early frames suffered from tube breakages and were replaced under warrantee - some of these replacement frames had the lowered mounting point, and therefore, a modified subframe was also supplied.
       From the way you describe your original frame, it appears that it is not a Mk4, but either a Mk1 or Mk3 frame. Mk1 frames were numbered up to 2999. Mk3 frames were numbered from 4000 to 6999. Mk4 & 5 frames - with the later style subframe -were numbered from 7000 to 12550.
       Hope this helps,
                               Regards,
                                            Eddie.