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Douglas 1913 Model P motorcycle

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Douglas 1915 3 Spd-Gearbox and Clutch

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Dave

2024-06-11, 20:02:05
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Dave

2024-06-08, 18:30:04
For Sale
xman has two very nice 1950's machines available - a green 1950 mk4 and black 1951 mk5 - both in good condition and running well.

Dave

2024-06-07, 02:13:36

Dave

2024-06-03, 08:23:05
For Sale
Duncan has just listed his green and cream 1957 Dragonfly for sale with spares and documents.

Dave

2024-06-02, 08:34:05
Parts avalable
alistair still has parts available - barrels, carburettor, castings - see all listings.


Dave

2024-06-01, 18:33:27

Dave

2024-05-28, 00:09:46
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Clutch Movement

Started by bazza, 06 Feb 2008 at 06:03

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bazza

Me again,having read all the comments re clutch movement on an EW being minimal how minimal please.My first car was a 1932 Austin 7 (bought for 20 pounds) the clutch movement on that car was about 1/4 of an inch before she would take off in fact now I come to think of it just the slightest movement of the foot would engage the gears.I've noticed on the EW that before tightening up the flywheel the operating cam and thrust is qiute light but after tightening the flywheel up the movement is heavier does the forum think the thrust is too thick I had the thrust made up from a 3/16 th brass ring and then placed small ballbearings in it as per someones advice.Hope someone can help.

Regards Bazza,
ps. I've yet to start the bike up so maybe this is all hyperthetical ? or some word like that !!!!!!!!

Alan Cun

Hello Bazza, I would answer your query on the clutch on your last post but for some reason the reply at the bottom is just not there. Anyway here goes:-  When the flywheel clutch is fully assembled there should be about 1/32 clearance between the balls and the lift arm. Now you must ensure that the balls are running against the fixed or anti rotational lift plate. That is the inner plate that is innermost and furtherest away from the lift arm. Make sure that the lift arm clears the fly wheel centre, and also make sure the thrust ring also clears the flwheel centre. As I have indicated on previous posts if the primary chain looks to be adjusted right it will probably be too tight. A tight chain causes the inner plate to be forced out of alignment and grab. To engage first gear you need low revs and you dont want the clutch grabbing. In theory the primary chain should stop to engage first. This wont happen and a grate will occur if you dont sneak up with the lever and snap it in. Any way you will learn all these tricks as you go along. Hang in there,  regards Al

bazza

Hi Alan,Thanks for the reply when you say innermost antirotational plate do you mean the one with the sprocket or the one that houses the roller bearings??????

Bazza

Dave

#3
This topic was somehow locked so that people couldn't reply. It should be OK now. Replies posted elsewhere have been merged.

Dave

Alan Cun

Yes Bazza, The balls in the thrust should be in contact with the face where the 1/4 roller groove is. No part of the thrust should be in contact with the sprocket plate. How you can gain the 1/32 I talked about may be difficult. If the thrust cant be narrowed maybe the 3 peg ramps could be played with. But looking at this maybe the inner face is already resting on the face of the crankcase. Al