Author Topic: EW Restoration  (Read 4761 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Stuart Lister

  • Full Member
  • **
  • Join Date: May 2004
  • Posts: 60
  • Location: UK (East Yorks)
EW Restoration
« on: 29 Sep 2004 at 21:34 »
Hello Group.

I am restoring a 1926 EW from a complete basket case. I have got to the stage where I am ready to start rebuilding, so you can expect lots of questions over the coming weeks and months.

This is my first time with anything this old, and my first Douglas, so please forgive me if I have missed something obvious.

Here's a couple of questions to get me going.

1.) Induction pipe.
I can't get the induction pipe to fit properly! It seems to be as far into the inlets in both cylinders as it will go, but it stands proud of the top of the engine by ".  What am I doing wrong? Should I just make a spacer and forget about it?

2.) Oil pipes.
Why has my engine got an oil pipe solderd into the drain plug? I thought it was just a bodge that someone had done to my engine, but I came across another engine recently, and that has a pipe in the same place. It is a short length of " copper pipe which sticks up "into the sump and goes through the drain plug,  and sticks out " at the bottom. What is it?

Thank you in advance,


Offline Doug

  • Administrator
  • ****
  • Join Date: Mar 2004
  • Posts: 4323
  • Location: Glen Mills, PA, USA
EW Restoration
« Reply #1 on: 11 Oct 2004 at 00:58 »

The tube sets the level of oil in the timing chest such that it is sufficient to lubricate the lower run of gears in the timing train.  Oil that escapes down this overflow is led via a tube to provide supplemental lubrication to the primary chain.  Where the overflow exits the bottom of the timing chest it should have a male thread and a female conical seat to take a tube gland fitting.  Not sure why yours has the copper tube extending out past the bottom of the chest, it should be a detachable piece.

Try the induction pipe again with 0.006-0.008" gaskets under each barrel.  You might find it makes a big difference in getting the intake manifold to fit verses dry fitting without.  Not sure if it will get you a whole 1/4", but see what it does.