Douglas - For Sale Items

Douglas 1913 Model P motorcycle

Douglas - Wanted Items

Douglas 1915 3 Spd-Gearbox and Clutch

Recent Posts

Quick Comments

Lat Fuller

2025-07-20, 02:39:50
I am pretty desperate for a rear cylinder for my veteran Douglas 1917 2 3/4hp "W" model.   I there is anyone who may have one of these that can be re-sleeved or know where I may find one I would be very pleased for the help.  I have a number of engine parts that I can exchange such as matching crankcases, conrods, crankshaft, flywheel etc. Any help appreciated.

Lat Fuller

2025-06-04, 05:57:00
Does anyone have the specifications for the oil inlet valve spring for early 2 3/4 engines - Part number 424.   I have tried to order one from the club spares but apparently Jeff Swan is indisposed at the moment.

skapoor

2025-05-19, 09:23:12
I am looking for a carburettor for veteran Douglas motorcycle engine-13651. Could you please help me with this?

Belt Rim Retaining Bolts - Pack of 10

Started by pvn06, 27 Feb 2019 at 19:24

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

pvn06

Hi all,
While recently restoring my Douglas 2 3/4hp rear wheel (not a simple task as I am sure many of you already know!), I was trying to decide the best way to retain the original Douglas Belt rim to the spokes.  I know that originally a small plate was used, with two screws, one either side of the spoke.  My belt rim had two small holes for this purpose.  However, while searching the web on the subject, I read an article of someone who had thought up a similar solution to this for his own belt drive wheel.  It looked a good idea - so I thought it worth having a go for my bike.

These are small stainless steel fasteners, with a cylinder head cross drilled so they can feed through a 12 gauge spoke.  on one end of the cylinder is a 2 BA threaded shaft that retains the belt rim. on the other side the cylinder is bored and threaded to take small stainless steel hex head grub screws.

Feed each retaining bolt onto the relevent spokes before starting the wheel building process, then once the wheel has been laced to the rim, the belt rim can be fed onto the 2 BA threaded ends and the nuts loosely placed.  Then the belt rim can be centred, before finally tightening up the grub screws. 
I found this worked well on the wheel I built - a couple of photos are shown below and on the listing, as well as instructions for use.

As with many other parts - as I had to write the programs to CNC manufacture these for my bike, I dediced to make them commercially in sets of 10 - hope they may be of use to you if you are restoring a belt rim wheel and have similar issue of how to retain it ahead.

If you want to purchase a set of these, ready to fit, then here is the listing on our RacingNorton website:
https://racingnorton.co.uk/epages/4c675e64-813f-4c0a-8926-87a680c962a0.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/4c675e64-813f-4c0a-8926-87a680c962a0/Products/%220803%20DG234_0015%22

Best wishes
Paul Norman
www.RacingNorton.co.uk

eddie

This looks like a neat solution, but I would be very wary of the grub screws leaving a 'nick' in the side of the spokes - it's almost inviting premature spoke failure!

  Eddie.

pvn06

Hi Eddie,
I would hope not . . . but a valid concern. 
I am hoping I may have my bike up an running late this year (my estimates on any restoration are notoriously crap though!), so will update this listing If I see any issues (but as I never knowingly sell anything I believe to be unsafe .. . I will have removed from listing myself first!). 
All that said, the actual bite onto the spoke does not seem extreme, and neither do I think it needs to be as it is the spokes that hold the radial tension.  But as I say in the listing, think it is is important to use threadlock to avoid the grubscrews loosening

best wishes
Paul