Flywheel Clutch problems

[saluki42]

Hi I've been trying for some time to sort out the clutch that came with my Model Z which looks to be the same as the previous models. The problem I have is the lack of lateral movement mechanism during operation. With the flywheel assembly on the bench and the springs obviously removed the maximum movement is only about 1/8 of an inch which equates to only a few degrees of movement of the operating arm. The Bearing Ring I have has grooves for the two rows of rollers and one race for the ball thrust bearing. When the is all assembled with the driven plate there is almost a 1/4 inch gap between the plate and the base of the bearing ring where there a appears to be almost another thrust ball race groove. If I remove the thrust balls from the bearing ring and reassemble with just the rollers in place I then get plenty of the the lateral movement I would expect.

Can any of the members out there make any suggestions as to what I've got wrong with this assembly or is it simply that the bearing ring I have is the wrong one for my assembly.
Regards
Chris

[Doug]

Chris,

You do not need much axial travel. Just enough to lift to push the clutch disk off back plate so it does not drag. The attached image is from an 1938 Aero brochure, but it is same as the S6 onward other than at some point they made the flange which the clutch springs abut a separate washer rather than integral to the carrier sleeve. Unlink the clutch on the ohv models, the carrier sleeve and the clutch disk/sprocket move axially together. (On the ohv models the carrier sleeve moves axial inside the clutch disk to lift a pressure plate, leaving the sprocket/disk to idle freely - more or less - in between.)



-Doug

[saluki42]

Thanks for that Doug, this is the first clutch of this type that I've worked on so rather nervous. I have another couple of quick questions regarding the clutch you might be able to help me with if you don't mind. Firstly do you have any idea of the lining thickness that would have been riveted to the driven plate/ I had mine he plate I had had had the lining removed previously so I had it relined and am wondering if it is now a bit too thick. Secondly the sectional view of the Aero clutch assembly seems to show a segmented cork faced driven plate is this correct as T6s had already gone over to the steel plated and riveted friction material so would seem to be a backward step for them.
Anyway thanks for the help and now I can get back to fitting all of the rollers and balls, I hate that job

Oh and I have attached a couple of the latest pictures of my Model Z, still a work in progress.

Regards
Chris

[Doug]

Chris,

My S6 (1932 Greyhound, D32) has a cork clutch. The corks probably project a fat 1/16 inch beyond the plate. I do not know how worn it is, but I do not think the cork clutches need much material projecting beyond the surrounding plate surface.

The limitation with this sort of clutch is the flange on the carrier sleeve (what the clutch springs abut) bottoming out against the flywheel. That is all the travel you have available. If it can do that and the clutch disk is free of the back plate, then you should be fine.

-Doug