Douglasmotorcycles.net
General => General Douglas Discussion => Topic started by: DEW on 28 Apr 2022 at 11:06
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Newbie here from Armidale NSW.
Dad had what I understand to be a 1927 EW350 that he left to my brother when he died about 6 years ago. My brother has asked me to see if I can get it running. It seems to be fairly complete but as far as I know dad never got it running. I believe the engine was rebuilt if the mid 1990’s but I don’t know who did the work. The magneto has no spark so I’ve sent that off to Chris Zoch and in the meantime there’s some stuff I’m trying to figure out.
1. How do you find TDC? It’s not explained in any of the manuals I have so I’m assuming its so blindingly obvious that there’s no need to explain it. The normal method I use of “old spark plug hollowed out to accommodate a stop, then degree wheel back and forward” won't work with the SV….
2. Tyres have me stumped because I don’t know how to tell the difference between beaded edge tyres and so called “balloon” tyres. Are the balloon tyres tyres similar in principle to modern tyres so that they can be run at modern pressures? The front tyre is a very old Dunlop 3.25 x 19 which I assume equates to the 26 x 3 that the manuals all recommend. I will try to upload photos. And can anyone recommend a reputable supplier (and tyre brand) of 3.25 x 19 tyres in NSW or elsewhere in Australia?
3. The magneto is a BTH M2 with an ignition cut out switch on the points cover. It was not fitted to the bike. Before I sent it away I tried to trial fit it but it is a fraction too long to fit between the timing chest and the flywheel (even with the points cover removed). I assume the bike is designed so that the mag can be removed and replaced without the need to loosen the flywheel so I’m hoping someone can tell me what the secret is?
4. There is a gap of approx. 1/8” (or maybe a bit less) between the bottom of the inlet manifold and the top of the timing chest. Should there be a gap or should the inlet manifold meet the timing chest? Or is there some kind of thick gasket? The reason I’m wondering is that there is a bolt or stud hole on top of the timing chest that lines up with a hole in the Inlet manifold casting and it looks as if the inlet manifold is meant to be bolted to the timing chest. I will try to upload a photo.
5. I’m thinking to use Penrite Shelsley Oil. Coming into winter here where our overnight minimums are -5C and daytime max anything between 5C and 20C. Should I use Light or Medium?
6. Penrite Semifluid & Steering Box Lube for the gearbox?
7. I was planning to use 95 octane petrol (but not Shell brand) and obviously steer clear of ethanol blends. But I’m also thinking 91 should be ok. From what I ‘ve read upper lube isn’t really required. Any feedback greatly appreciated.
8. Plugs are old but unused NGK A6 which I assume are ok?
9. Finally – From dad’s scant notes I think he bought the bike from an H. King in November 1994. Engine No. YE 20446. Frame No. M F4211. Gearbox No. RG 7329. The bike is fitted with the optional electric lighting set. If anyone has any info on prior ownership history that would be appreciated. I'll try to upload a photo.
Cheers Dan
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Front tyre
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Gap between timing chest and inlet manifold
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Bike as received. Missing bits are on hand.
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Hi Dan,
Good luck with your project - looks like it should come together ok.
Fingers crossed the engine has in fact been done. Even so, make sure no dust/dirt/insects have got inside the valves/cylinders - if in doubt make sure everything is cleaned out and lubricated before you turn it over.
Re fluids: 91 petrol, Shelsey Medium, and semi-fluid grease should get you going fine. Penrite also have a Transoil 250 which would be OK for the gearbox, but might end up on the garage floor more readily than the semi-fluid grease.
The bike has wired-on rims, so you don't need to worry about beaded edge tyres. Have a look at Mitas tyres. They do a nice 3.00-19 which would go on the rims and look suitable for a vintage bike, and I recommend a couple of new heavy-duty Michelin tubes to suit.
You might have to find TDC with a bent wire - it will be accurate enough for setting the valve and magneto timing on the EW.
Plenty of jobs to do!
Cheers
Leon
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That roll of fencing wire might come in handy.
May even be some surplus !
The magneto originally was an EIC.
This is quite a stubby little unit.
Those drop centre rims have really accelerated progress on that bike.
The original 25 x 3 clincher tyres have been out of production for many a year.
My advice would be not to replace the tyres until some running was imminent.
That is a very nice project as acquired. Wish my project was as advanced.
We note some rusty looking fasteners. ?
You might think of applying some dabs of silver paint until some nickel plating happens ?
Keep any further corrosion at bay.
(some folks will throw up their hands in horror at the suggestion of silver paint !)
Keep us posted with progress. ?
Have fun !
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Hi Leon and Ron,
Thank you both for your replies that does help. Especially the tyre advice Leon I really appreciate that. And Ron I agree - priority is to get it going before buying new tyres. The back one made me laugh, its a retread, I haven't seen that since mum and dads EH Holden....
Re TDC, one of our club guys suggested using a bit of old clutch or brake cable to get round the corner.... Anyway once Ive got it I'll mark it on the flywheel (discreetly of course!) I have been assuming that both pistons hit TDC at the same time? Please let me know if that's not right.
Ron you made me laugh with the silver paint. I have a mate who would throw up his hands in horror if I did that. He recently acquired a Triumph Bonneville and was cussing about all the silver paint on the fasteners and spokes etc.....which he has been fixing! But in all seriousness I take your point. Dad had the bike in fairly good condition by the turn of the century but then he lost interest, I'm not sure why, and it has sat for the past 20+ years at Tweed Heads, a corrosive environment if ever there was one. So even just getting it up here will help with the rust. I will probably get liberal with WD40 as a temporary measure until I can get it running.
Leon I removed the valve caps and had a squizz, the valves look unused - not sure if they are new or cleaned up second hand ones, but everything that I can see looks like it (the engine) has been done. But like all these things unless you know who's done the work you never know what shortcuts may have been taken and what horrors are lurking......
Ron its interesting you say the original magnetos were EIC - there seem to be a lot with BTH mags on YouTube and elsewhere on the net and the EW manuals I have refer to BTH M2 mags (albeit without the ignition cutout) so I had assumed they were the standard fitment
Anyway thanks to you both for the very helpful replies - much appreciated!
Cheers
Dan
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Mmmm, hold that thought on the magneto - I'll go and have a look !
I was playing with a 2¾hp engine a while back, maybe it has the EIC.
I've not done anything to the EW for a while
I apologize if my memory has switched them ...
A possible different way to find tdc is to put a soap bubble across the spark plug hole.
And gently rotate the flywheel to find the point of maximum bubble.
If you mark the flywheel with something to use as a reference, it can be an easy way to have
semi-permanent timing marks.
P.S. The engine has a mechanical valve lifter that works via the timing chest.
This is how you'd normally kill the engine ?
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To find TDC I would take off a valve cap and turn the flywheel until you can see that the piston is near TDC with both valves closed.
Then replace the cap, take out the spark plug and wipe over some soapy water to create a bubble/film across the hole.
You will then be able to see microscopic changes in position, with TDC when the bubble is at max size. (Assuming there is some compression!)
As the ignition timing is given as 40-50 deg BTDC, then in reality near enough is good enough.
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Thanks Ron and Bob very much appreciate the advice I will give that a go.
I have reprints of what I assume are the original handbooks/manuals that would have come with the bikes. In some ways they are quite comprehensive, telling you how to do just about anything from setting the ignition and valve timing, decarbonising the engine to adjusting the clutch etc etc, but not one explains how to find TDC. I guess its better than a modern manual which tells you not to drink the battery acid and return it to the dealer for everything else.....
I have a manual for the T6, S6, S5 and C/31 D/31 and E/31 models that talks about timing when the "piston is 5/16" before TDC" but as best I can tell those models have detachable heads.
Anyway thanks again guys - much appreciated!!
Cheers Dan
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With the valve caps removed I can clearly see the piston crown at the top end of the piston travel. Should be able to guesstimate the middle of the dead spot accurately enough for TDC. Simple when you know.......