General => Douglas Motorcycles - General Discussion => Topic started by: bazza on 25 Jun 2008 at 07:26

Title: Flywheel dislodgement
Post by: bazza on 25 Jun 2008 at 07:26
G'day All,Having heard of cases of flywheels coming dislodged and having it happen to me as I have been trying to get my EW going.I was wondering if one was to drill a hole through the nut that holds the flywheel on and then the crankshaft and putting a pin through would this work whats your thoughts????Also I'd like to take this opportunity of thanking DavidH publicly for coming up to Batemans Bay from Melbourne a distance of 760 klms on the 11 th of July to help get my bike going.David is a forum member and owner of a T5 Douglas also thanks to Ian Richardson who has also offered his help.All of this has put my faith in human nature back on track.

Regards Bazza
Title: Re: Flywheel dislodgement
Post by: Alan Cun on 25 Jun 2008 at 07:56
No Barry No. Locking the nut is not the solution to the flywheel coming loose. Even a keyway and key on the taper didn't solve the problem. To my experience the problem lies with the flywheel nut not being tight enough. In the past the douglas owners tool kit was probably a tubular box spanner with a small or short through bar and a grip on the flywheel by the other hand and that achieved very little tension. If you can pull up an old posting I made on special tools you will see a bar with 2 lugs that fits into the flywheel spring holes. This lever is about 14 inches long. Now you need a deep socket and about the same length of socket bar or a tension wrench. Now if the tapers are a good match the prospect of the flywheel coming loose shouldn't be a problem. Hang in there regards Alan.
Title: Re: Flywheel dislodgement
Post by: eddie on 25 Jun 2008 at 08:41
           The tapers on crankshafts and flywheels need to match perfectly if they sre not to work loose. If the flywheel is also equipped with a key, this should only locate the flywheel for tightening purposes - the taper should be doing the work of holding the flywheel. If you have a key fitted, remove it, apply a small amount of grinding paste to the taper and then lap in the flywheel. The end result should be a matt grey finish over the whole of the taper. When you have achieved this, remove all traces of grinding paste, refit the key and make sure the flywheel doesn't ride on the top of it. Then fit the nut, making sure it does not become thread bound before pinching the flywheel. With the nut fully tightened, you should not have any more problems with the flywheel coming loose.
Title: Re: Flywheel dislodgement
Post by: Alan Cun on 26 Jun 2008 at 08:57
Hello All, I had no luck in finding my above posting on Doug tools, however on checking my records in my pictures the posting was Doug tricks of trade. I have therfore re submitted it to the forum and hope some of my home made devices are of interest. Pics to follow. regards Alan.

( Tricks of the trade.JPG)

( more tricks.JPG)

Update image links. 30Jul19 Doug, Site moderator
Title: Re: Flywheel dislodgement
Post by: Doug on 26 Jun 2008 at 12:34

I do not see your new post pictures yet, but I think this is the old post you were looking for?,2094.msg7621.html#msg7621

Topic: EW (and I dont doubt other) clutch matters 'spring' to mind
Author: tck

Title: Re: Flywheel dislodgement
Post by: Dave on 26 Jun 2008 at 23:56
Photos added to Alan's post above.
Title: Re: Flywheel dislodgement
Post by: Alan Cun on 27 Jun 2008 at 08:51
Hello All, Maybe the flywheel tool is not that clear. I made the tool from discarded track pins from M113 Personnel Carriers. They are good quilty steel and were thrown away by the dozen when I worked on them in the mid 70s. It was just a matter of bending the threaded ends of two pins with some heat and fitting the bent ends into the flywheel holes and then welding the two pins together. Another tool I should comment on is the tubular one that fits over the lock ring for detachable brake drums. If you tighten the ring with a chissel chances are the ring will split. Simple to make all it needs is a angle grinder cut and braze in a woodruf key.

 Had to make a 100 spline taper today for my mate Des. This is achieved with a 100 tooth gear fitted to the outer end of the lathe spindle with a pawl to work as a ratchet on the teeth. With the correct taper cut into a flat disc a 60 degree tool is then moved in and out by the tool post Only takes 100 times in 100 times out and maybe all over again if the fit not quite enough. All manual work no elec power used. Time consuming yes? But have thought of an air or hydraulic operated tool.  regards Alan