Thanks Doug for the reply I shall open the box again this coming weekend and remove the spring and see what difference it makes to the start mechanism.

Again many thanks

Colin

Colin,

A 4-speed box for a 1932-33 era would have a prefix of GB/ and would not be a constant mesh kickstart. A T/ prefix is for a 1936 500/600cc Aero model. That had the constant mesh kickstart, and that looks like what you have. Those should not have a spring pushing the ratchet pinion into contact. They rely on inertia and the quick start thread of the Bendix to kick the face ratchet into mesh. (Introduced 1934 on the 4-speed 'boxes.) Then once the bike starts it spins it out of mesh. The Bendix thread is on a sleeve that needs to spin freely on its stud, as well as the Bendix thread itself, for it to work properly. These get gacked up and sticky. Do not grease them, use a very light oil or a dry film type lube.

The parts list scan is for the 3-speed gearbox. Note the kickstart spring for the 3- and 4-speed boxes are slightly different. The LDMCC Spare prewar department usually stock both.

-Doug

Newbie looking at a 1919 WD 2-3/4 with a two speed gearbox but no clutch that is for sale locally.  Are clutch assemblies available?  How about kick start assemblies? Regards, Scot Taylor
email: roadster@olypen.com

Genuine handlebar links (28734) were painted, die cast alloy. The clamp part often cracked if the correct liners were not used - they should be an 'odd' thickness - about .080", but are often replaced by items cut from steel tube - thus causing the links to fracture.

Regards,
              Eddie.

I am looking for 1 x  'link for handle bar' part no. 28734 to fit a 1950 Mk IV.

My bike has one chrome, the other stainless steel so although I would prefer chrome, either will do as I want them to match

I've check the club parts list but can't see the item listed.

Thanks for reading.

Hello to all,
I need some help with the basic sizes of the kickstart ratchet spring, wire size  and overall length, the spring that came with the gearbox was as you can see in the photos is not good so I need a replacement. My problem is the ratchet sometimes slips when starting the engine, the mating faces of the ratchets look quite good so my first task is to fit a correct spring.
Just for clarity I believe my box is a four speed from around 32/33 and the number is T/345, I am also missing 10065-1 Bearing ring for spring anyone have a photo or dimensions so I could make one.

Thanks for reading my post

Kind regards Colin

Quote from: eddie on 09 Jul 2025 at 08:56 The chrome bezel can often be stubborn when trying to unscrew it - wrap an old toothed timing belt around the bezel, clamp the belt in a bench vice so that it grips the bezel (don't clamp the actual bezel), then turn the casing. 

Now I like that.!  Suddenly I  feel justified in keeping all those old cambelts I've got!

Try the Velocette club for a rear light lens - several of their models had the same rear light and they did have some replica lenses at one time.

If you can get the speedo head apart, it probably only needs a clean and oil up - the original grease has probably solidified. The chrome bezel can often be stubborn when trying to unscrew it - wrap an old toothed timing belt around the bezel, clamp the belt in a bench vice so that it grips the bezel (don't clamp the actual bezel), then turn the casing. The workings of a Chronometric speedo are much like that of a clock - don't try to workout exactly how it works, it would probably drive you insane! Good luck with any repairs!

Quote from: yosemite on 08 Jul 2025 at 22:13 especially compared to a rebuilt chronometric. But if you have an original would it be worth sending it in to a specialist to be repaired?

Having just had a pair of later magnetics rebuilt, would recommend getting a quote for the work first.
I'm sill suffering wallet shock - and did get a quote. !