Hello, 
The action of my Mk5 forks was stiff, with limited travel, and I have subsequently discovered that both the front pivots of the brake reaction links ( plate 24, item 48)were seized. I have now rectified this, but I would like some advice on re-assembling.
 The rear fork/clevis of the brake reaction links is bolted through the 'Eye-bolt ( plate 24, item 43) itself pivoting on the rear of the fork legs. This I understand, but on my bike the nut and bolt ( items 51 and 52) were done up so tight such that there was no lateral movement ( i.e. the link couldn't rotate on the eyebolt, and was effectively one piece.
I don't think this is correct?  The eyebolt has an elongated hole.  Should the link be allowed to rotate at all times, or are you supposed to assemble everything loose to let it align itself (in the elongated hole) and then tighten the bolt fully to lock the reaction link to the eyebolt?   I can make a case for either option - if locked the mudguard has better lateral location, but may cause stiffness in the fork action, and you should be able to rely on the wheel spindle to keep everything aligned.
I can't find any instructions in the manual.
What's the consensus please?

Thanks very much
GeoffB

I am looking for a good home for these parts that belonged to my father. He owned a Dragon Fly for many years and also had this engine and spares. I am looking for advice as to where best to advertise and confirmation of correct part names etc. 

Hi Eddie,
I have finally got round to trying your remedy for clutch dragging by flushing through with petrol, and I am delighted to say it's worked a treat!!  There seemed to be so much debris draining out that I ran the bike for a few days, and then repeated the process.  I now have a clutch that frees nicely with only a slight clonk when engaging 1st gear from a standstill. The gearchange is also much improved.   I have to be careful, because there seems to be a false neutral between 2nd and 3rd gears, and getting back into gear from here is still tricky - never mind...
So many thanks again for your advice!!

Cheers
GeoffB

I did bid on a couple of the bikes, and most of them did say in red when bidding that there was a reserve not met. 

The latest edition of a classic car mag quotes median car prices as having fallen about 14.2 % after inflation and some auctioneers are even offering finance to encourage buyers. I suspect that unless you have a Vincent or Brough hidden away, the actual drop for bikes is quite a bit more.
Having attended some of the much missed Shannon's Auctions, it was always interesting to watch auction fever with people loosing focus on buyer's commission. I must admit that I thought ( as previously mentioned) that no mention of a reserve price implied that the top price however low , won.

Auctions (all online) have been run and (mostly) won.
Click on the catalog link in the 1st post to see achieved prices.
Not all bikes sold, dunno how that works - no mention of reserve ?
Bike prices tended to be on the low side of most of the estimates, not sure what that sez.

My fav-o-rite was the EW rear wheel with 19" rim.
Threw in a bid - and the opposing bids just continued and continued, just amazing !
A feature of this auction is that any late bids gets a 3 ? minute extension of time.
Some auctions went on and on and on. !
With the buyers premium AND GST on top, thats a lotta dosh for some items.
Some lesser items went for very modest bids.

Did not bid on the EW rack - postage on 5 racks would be monstrous, if you cannot attend.
If anyone has one spare, I'm all ears.

Hello,
maybe someone knows or searched wich stahdard lettering character set comes the original Douglas letters close...
Thanks
Carsten

i have sent you a couple of personal messages about this. did you get them? maybe check your junk email or spam folders?

id rather not discuss prices in a public forum so if its quicker and easier send me an email to 
alistairbuxton@outlook.com

Do you have a about price shipped  to Hutchinson mn. 55350?

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