Paul,
        The only postwar model that Douglas published a list of limits and fits for was the T35 Mk1. In that handbook, they suggested the crankshaft endfloat should be between .005" and .014". This figure was obtained by shimming between the oil retaining plate (large hardened washer) and the shoulder on the front mainshaft. These early models had a one-piece front main bearing bush whereas your Mk4 should have a two-piece bush.

  Hope this helps,
                          Eddie.

Sweetnigel,

I use on my pre - 1940 Douglas bikes (not Endeavour) most Mitas tires (czech made), because they have a nice old-fashioned, near to old Dunlop, surface. quality is good and price is okay.

May be a 4.00-19 rear is a bit fat?
Is there enough clearance to the shaft drive?

Michael

Thanks for that Ron.
Sadly, documentation for the Endeavour is almost non-existent but the sales brochure quotes 
"26 x 3.25 Dunlop wired" for the tyres.
I wonder what sort of Dunlop that would have been?
The present tyres are not the same brand, nor can I can find them now - the rear is around 40 years old and the front even older!
My instinct is to go for 3.50 x 19 Avon Speedmaster front and matching Avon SM rear 4.00 x 19.

As has been suggested here before, the factory likely didn't even own a torque wrench when 
these bikes were built, so any suggested torque figures should be viewed in this light.
Doing things by feel was how they did it then - folks with a gorilla grip need not apply. !!

Sticking to a table of possible torques for common bolt sizes gives approx
8 ft/lbs for 1/4" bolts,  15 ft/lbs for 5/16 bolts and 20 ft/lbs for 3/8" bolts.
If all hi-tensile steels are involved, these can be increased a little.
If this feels too much, don't persist !
Larger fittings - sprockets and crankshafts for example - can require a good heave.
And bolts/studs into alloy should be treated with some caution, & Loctite is good here. ?

Someone may chime in with some tried, true and tested numbers here. But again, treat with slight caution ?.
Hopethishelps.

As you can imagine, a blanket one-tyre type recommendation suits all is highly unlikely.

What brand and type are your present 3.50 x 19 front and 4.00 x 19 rear ?
Fortunately, tyres for classics haven't changed a whole lot - if they have served you well, 
you should be able to find something very similar today.



Tyres in the 1930s were likely to have been possibly 3.25 x 19 both front and rear.
(what does the handbook say ?).
With fairly stiff sidewalls, so low-ish pressures would suit.
Modern tyres tend to have softer sidewalls, so always read the pressures suggested,
likely imprinted in the sidewalls - 28 to 30 psi -ish is common.
Hopethishelps.

I'm looking to replace the tyres on my 1936 Endeavour. Presently fitted are 3.50 x 19 front, and 4.00 x 19 rear.
Firstly, what make and sizes would have been fitted in the 1930s?
More importantly, what make, model and sizes should I fit in 2025?
I believe the rims to be the originals.

Hi,
I'm new here so bear with me please - rebuilding 1951 Mk.4 Sport. Engine completely stripped all clean and now ready to build. The crank has not been touched as this engine has done very small mileage and the crank and rods all appear absolutely fine. So my question is (I have searched the forum but got so many threads it's a nightmare) what do I set the crank endfloat to (seems like 5-6 thou from what I've read here), where to put the shims (both sides or only one side), and then is there anywhere I can find a list of engine related torque settings please ? Thanks in advance for your guidance.
Paul

Okay thanks, will give that a go as well tomorrow when off work 

On the offending side, remove the float chamber and bottom cap nut. Carefully, push the jet block out of the bottom of the carb. Look at the side of the block that faces the cylinderhead, just below the main bore, there is a very shallow drilling about 4mm dia. In that drilling, there are 3 more drillings - one is the fuel supply (coming up from where the float chamber attaches) - the second is a small drilling that goes up into the main bore of the carb - the third is an even smaller hole in the centre of that shallow drilling. This hole
 sometimes gets blocked and is not easy to detect as it looks like the normal flat that you get in the centre of a drilled hole. This problem seems to have become more common since the introduction of unleaded fuel (as it tends to block small jets if left to dry).

Hope this helps,
                        Eddie.

No, have only swapped the floats. I will give it a try. Thanks