« previous next »
Pages: 1

Author Topic: Douglas tapers  (Read 4174 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline psjc

  • Member
  • *
  • Join Date: Sep 2016
  • Posts: 6
  • Location: Ealing
Douglas tapers
« on: 16 Jan 2017 at 17:32 »
Am trying to rebuild a 1914 two speed 2.75 HP Douglas gearbox without clutch before the Pioneer Run - too much work too little time as usual. Have two questions which the joint expertise should have no problem with please.
1. What is the included angle of the taper on the output shaft of the gearbox, I.e. The belt pulley and is it the same as the large sprocket taper into the box?

2. Several people have told me that the writing on the front hub has to read in a particular direction to be fitted the right way round. Being a twit I failed to note it on disassembly. Any thoughts please?

3. Knee cartilage given up the ghost last week- Am I being over ambitious n thinking the Dougie will get me to Brighton with a duff knee?

Many thanks in advance

Shaun C
Logged

Online Doug

  • Administrator
  • ****
  • Join Date: Mar 2004
  • Posts: 4655
  • Location: Glen Mills, PA, USA
Re: Douglas tapers
« Reply #1 on: 16 Jan 2017 at 21:44 »
Logged

Offline Chris54

  • Full Member
  • **
  • Join Date: May 2013
  • Posts: 72
  • Location: Copthorne, West Sussex
Re: Douglas tapers
« Reply #2 on: 23 Jan 2017 at 11:05 »
Hi Shaun

Question 3, definitely get you there with dodgy knee, i do it with a dodgy hip that needs replacing, my 1914 2 3/4 out performs me. doing the run this year on 1911 model D.

Chris
Logged

Offline cardan

  • Master Member
  • ****
  • Join Date: Jul 2007
  • Posts: 1547
  • Location: Adelaide, South Australia
    • Leon's Vintage Motorcycle Page
Re: Douglas tapers
« Reply #3 on: 24 Jan 2017 at 04:57 »

Re number 2: Chater Lea hubs are similar to Douglas hubs, and their instructions are clear: fit the hub to the frame so that the bearing cup tends to TIGHTEN as the wheel rotates about the axle.

This seems a bit counter-intuitive to me, and I had my CL hub fitted the other way, reasoning it was better for the bearing to loosen rather than tighten. Bad idea. It did loosen and jammed the hub between the fork!

Make sure the lock rings are nipped up tight and use a drop of loctite.

Leon
Logged

Offline veikko1

  • Full Member
  • **
  • Join Date: Nov 2014
  • Posts: 74
  • Location: Finland
Re: Douglas tapers
« Reply #4 on: 24 Jan 2017 at 07:57 »
Hello
I read this very interesting. I have 1914 model too, and both hub locking ring are missing. Can I get any drawings of them, that we can do it? Maybe Pioneer Run too.
Regards veikko1
Logged

Offline graeme

  • Master Member
  • ****
  • Join Date: Oct 2004
  • Posts: 664
  • Location: Hobart, Australia
Re: Douglas tapers
« Reply #5 on: 26 Jan 2017 at 09:20 »
Sound advice there Leon - and I have found out the hard way also that the hubs have to fitted the correct way around, and yes the lock rings need to be tight even when fitted the correct way! Thankfully no real damage done when the bearings worked loose, except for taking off the new nickel plate  :(
Logged
Pages: 1
« previous next »