Do the club spares not have some?

If you have some for sale or can point me in the right direction, I would be very grateful!

With a little sub-note about lubing threads and working to specific torque values.
That "trying to drag a dry nut around on the thread" is what gives the torque value its value. !!

So if you are torquing a crankshaft nut to a known value - say 100 ft/lbs - and you lube the threads,
then, depending on the lube type, the amount of stretch may be reached well before that (dry) number is 
reached on your torque wrench.

So a lubed 50 ft/lbs may be equivalent to a dry 100 ft/lbs.
(Modern) manuals will often quote torque values either as dry values or values oiled.
To emphasize the difference in techniques.
Hopethishelps

Andy,
       The taper is more important than the keyway! I would suggest that you should leave the keyway as is, lap in the taper, re-fit the flywheel and crankshaft nut and fully tighten it. (If you are concerned about it coming loose again, use a little Loctite, but DON'T back off the nut in order to get a split pin in - that will probably eventually result in a loose flywheel). Personally, I don't even use Loctite on my crankshaft nuts - they just have a smear of Molyslip grease to make sure all the torque applied drives the flywheel onto the taper (rather than trying to drag a dry nut around on the thread).
  Hope this helps,
                         Regards,
                                     Eddie.

Here is a scan of the instructions for the 1913 2 3/4 HP Models.

Probably don't need to worry about injecting paraffin into the compression taps as I think this was mainly to help "un-gum" the engine from the oils used in that era. Oils improved and the taps were removed from the 2 3/4HP engine specifications from about 1915 onwards as they were redundant. 

Cheers

Hutch

Photo from the PDF added to Peter's post above.

Hi Folks,

I think I might have posted here previously, but some time ago, wondering if by some miracle that my Dad's Douglas had survived.  When sorting photos out I came across this one, which got me thinking again, is it still out there?  Checking on the DVLA website it says the last time the V5 was changed was Feb 2013, so maybe it's still up and running?  The registration is (was?) HWD 282, apparently first registered in April 1949.
It would be great if I could find, just to be able to take photo of me next to it, if that's possible.
Here's hopefully.

Peter

Quote from: Hutch on 13 Nov 2024 at 03:21 Or possibly download the 1925 Handbook from Barnstormers Site in New Zealand for free?

https://www.barnstormers.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Douglas-350-PDF.pdf

It covers the earlier 2 3/4hp models so should have some useful information for you as a starting point. I have the 1913 booklet that EW-Ron refers to. If you require it, I can scan the relevant parts and post in this thread when I get a chance.

Cheers

Hutch

Hi Hutch, many thanks for that most appreciated. Very helpful indeed.

Or possibly download the 1925 Handbook from Barnstormers Site in New Zealand for free?

https://www.barnstormers.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Douglas-350-PDF.pdf

It covers the earlier 2 3/4hp models so should have some useful information for you as a starting point. I have the 1913 booklet that EW-Ron refers to. If you require it, I can scan the relevant parts and post in this thread when I get a chance.

Cheers

Hutch

The London Douglas Motor Cycle Club also do reprints from 1910 an onward. Available to members and non-members. See info further down on their Shop page:

https://douglasmcc.co.uk/shop/

-Doug