Quote from: eddie on 09 Jul 2025 at 08:56 The chrome bezel can often be stubborn when trying to unscrew it - wrap an old toothed timing belt around the bezel, clamp the belt in a bench vice so that it grips the bezel (don't clamp the actual bezel), then turn the casing. 

Now I like that.!  Suddenly I  feel justified in keeping all those old cambelts I've got!

Try the Velocette club for a rear light lens - several of their models had the same rear light and they did have some replica lenses at one time.

If you can get the speedo head apart, it probably only needs a clean and oil up - the original grease has probably solidified. The chrome bezel can often be stubborn when trying to unscrew it - wrap an old toothed timing belt around the bezel, clamp the belt in a bench vice so that it grips the bezel (don't clamp the actual bezel), then turn the casing. The workings of a Chronometric speedo are much like that of a clock - don't try to workout exactly how it works, it would probably drive you insane! Good luck with any repairs!

Quote from: yosemite on 08 Jul 2025 at 22:13 especially compared to a rebuilt chronometric. But if you have an original would it be worth sending it in to a specialist to be repaired?

Having just had a pair of later magnetics rebuilt, would recommend getting a quote for the work first.
I'm sill suffering wallet shock - and did get a quote. !

Hi Ken 
main recomendation is to be very careful. I have one fitted to a 1979 Indian enfie!d bullet. This is the third I have fitted to it in about 10k miles The following points should be noted.
First the thread for the speedo dive cable is larger than that used on smiths instruments. Having said that the thread on a cable that fits the replicas will usually fit a smiths speedo drive gearbox
Second the calibration of a replica speedo is shall I say a matter of severe randomeness, the one currently fitted compared  to the local speed warning signs that tell you what speed you are travelling at, and also a tom tom sat nav unit varies seeming to be dependant on weather conditions.Also if you look at the adverts for these they all seem to say something like 4:1 drive, and not as I believe the originals were specified as revs per mile
Third  and this could be related to the above the damping on the needle is light and the needle waves around a lot
Fourth  the drive for these is central to the unit, chronometric drives  are offset, although the magnetic smiths are central, this may depending on your mounting bracket cause you problems trying to mount one
Fifth  they are succeptible to vibration as you may have guessed by my having three fitted in 10k miles

Finally and the reason I have one fitted to the bullet is they are cheap, especially compared to a rebuilt chronometric. But if you have an original would it be worth sending it in to a specialist to be repaired?

Wanted rear light for a dragonfly or at very least a good lens. I can repair the original back plate.

Also the nob of the Miller ignition switch if anyone has them please get in touch.

Thanks Robbie

I am in the process of restoring a 1950 T35 with a view to using it on the road.  The Smiths speedometer does not work (I have checked the cable and drive) and internally, is in pretty terrible condition. I'm considering fitting a new replica Smith, rather than getting this one repaired. Any suggestions or recommendations? Thank you.

Quote from: Doug on 07 Jul 2025 at 20:03 No. Significant difference in size and mounting.

-Doug

Hi Doug,

Thanks for the reply. 

No. Significant difference in size and mounting.

-Doug

Is the crankcase from a ew350 1927 the same as a 600cc from that era?