Hello,

I'm looking to buy 2 of the above for my 1935 250 Comet before I attempt to make them. I'd be more than happy to hear from anyone who might have some spare.
Thanks 
Mike 

Thanks very much Doug, I couldn't ask for more. 
Regards 
Mike

The tappet guides sit in tapered bores and are held in by a brigde clamp.

Clamp looks like this:


And a drawing for it:


Larger image HERE

PDF version HERE

As noted on the drawing first introduced for the redesigned 350EW around 1927. The clamp remained the same for the subsequent 250/350cc models.

-Doug

Ralf, 
       In the photo of the generator, you have already removed the 2 bolts that hold the generator in place, so it should just come away from the timing cover - however, you may find that the 'O' ring around the generator spigot has perished and is 'gluing' the generator in place. When you get the generator off, you will see it has a small drive gear, inside the timing cover there is a matching idler gear that drives the magneto. Both these items can fall out through the hole in the timing cover - be careful, otherwise, if the idler falls out, you will have to re-time the magneto.
     Going over to the flywheel - the retaining nut has not had the corners chiselled off - the nuts were produced like that! You will see that the flywheel has a retaining ring in it's centre - leave that in place - the flywheel nut will contact the back of that ring, making the flywheel 'self - extracting' as the nut is undone. When you come to dismantling the flywheel assembly - you will come across a mass of rollers and ball bearings (there are 2 rows of rollers and 1 row of balls) - these are the bearings for the friction plate and clutch release, and will need greasing to keep them in place as you re-assemble it. On refitting the balls in the clutch release, don't try to fit a full compliment - you should leave room for one more ball (otherwise they will run in contact with each other and become scuffed).

As before - hope this helps,
                                        Regards,
                                                     Eddie.

All,
Started stripping etc.couple of questions which I am sure someone will know better than me.Firstly the generator over the timing cover...best way to remove..can only see the two bolts 9 o clock and 3 clock.secondly...the clutch side...after the springs are removed..best way to split...looks like someone has tried chisels on the castled nut

Hi can anybody help wanted clutch thrust bearing does anyone have a used or new 
Or have any part numbers or bearing numbers 
For 1926/7 ew Douglas 
Regards Johnb

Eddie,
Thanks for that ....Will do...she's moving now btw!!!

Ralf,
        When the time comes to rebuild the engine, leave the timing cover off until you have the engine in the frame and the primary chaincase attached. The engine through studs can then be tightened from the LH side - this ensures that all internal components are securely clamped in place before the timing cover is replaced. If you prematurely fit the timing cover, it is possible to have everything looking as if it is tight, but the cam followers and camshaft outrigger plate may be loose enough to move around on the through studs - usually resulting in the cam spindles working loose in the crankcase, and possibly breaking off the cast pillar that provides the oil supply to the valve gear.

  Hope this helps,
                          Regards,
                                        Eddie.

EW-Ron,
Thanks for that. It's been soaking happily for a couple of days so I'll give it a go shortly. You mentioned the oil galleries. Being dry sumped I assume that ensuring oil delivery is a priority. Will get on and see how we go !!
Cheers
Ralf