Hi Newbie hundreds maybe thousands of flywheels have left home and headed in different directions,like the ten pound Poms in the fifties, the torque is not likely to be the problem but taper and fit will be ( loctite or some other gorilla snot and a tight nut is only a very temporary fix (not recommended ) and is bad engineering practice, firstly apply medium lapping paste to crankshaft taper and lap flywheel left to right several times and at quarter turn increments repeat the process after one turn wash the tapers ( kerosine ) and look for contact points should look like a bead blasted finish then apply sparingly engineers marking blue, if not available use a felt pen or a soft lead pencil to determine contact points, its a time consuming process left right several times quarter turn etc wash, inspect ,blue, inspect, if necessary use a coarse paste then medium then fine to finish, you need to have at least 80% surface contact if it's not looking hopefull the next step is to re machine both tapers and then the blueing and lapping again process begins THE MACHINING OF THE TAPERS IS SERIOUS WORK (NOT FOR BEGINNERS) FOR EVERY COUPLE OF THOUSANDS OF AN INCH REMOVED THE FLY WHEEL WILL BE TRYING TO MAKE LOVE TO THE CRANKCASE ( NOT WITHOUT A WASHER I HOPE )THE PROBLEM HERE BEING THE PRIMARY CHAIN ALIGNMENT AND FLYWHEEL BOSS ( MALE ) AND CRANKCASE BOSS ( FEMALE ) CELIBACY HERE PLEASE, HOPE FULLY YOU WILL ESCAPE THE MACHINING PROCESS REMEMBER THE TAPER DOES THE DRIVE NOT THE KEY AND AND A TIGHT NUT 60 FT/LBS SHOULD BE FINE I AIM FOR 100% AND 75 FT /LBS ON MY OHV MOTORS if you were in Brisbane I could give you a hand, good luck Bob Barlow RA 23.