Hello Douglas friends,

as I have a total loss on my gearbox, I am looking for a gearbox for my E31 (S6).
The defective gearbox has the designation WG/T1917. Is this correct?

Regards Manfred

For sale: Douglas 2 3/4 hp from 1913 in good condition. Registered for traffic in Switzerland. Negotiable price 18,000 euros.

Very difficult to date old motorcycles...

Hmmm, bidding is going ahead with those wrong descriptions.
That "EW" has already attracted 15 bids....

Wonder what the washup is when the winner finds its not what it was represented as ??

Try club spares I know it was being looked in to.

I emailed them, via their contact form, with essentially your comments.
Lets see what happens.

Their valuations seem a trifle low. ?
I'd love that 4hp project, although a lot to find.
Good job its far away ...

Hi Guys
A couple of Douglas at auction in Victoria Australia
heavily misrepresented
 
https://online.doningtonauctions.com.au/m/lot-details/index/catalog/193/lot/48793/Douglas-Model-2-350-1912-frame-1914-engine?url=%2Fm%2Fview-auctions%2Fcatalog%2Fid%2F193
My Guess is 1923 4hp 

https://online.doningtonauctions.com.au/m/lot-details/index/catalog/193/lot/48796/1927-Douglas-EW?uact=2&aid=193&lid=48793&current_page=5
My guess is TS 24

Regards Daren

Hi everyone,

Recently bought my first Douglas (a MkV) after a 45 year break from motorcycling. Can anyone suggest where I might source some engine/roll bars from? I'll feel more comfortable riding out with some pot protection! 

Chris, Devon. 

All good advice I am sure.
There are a heck of a range of tyres out there, still.
Ribbed front v's block tread front is another discussion.
I find ribbed fronts very prone to 'tram tracking' ?

I would comment though that 22 psi in modern soft sidewall tyres is too low.
This is equivalent to running them half flat.  They probably even look half flat ?
Just reading the sidewall recommendations should increase that to 26 to 28 psi,
and 30 psi for performance motoring - or pillion carrying.
They could be quite skittish on 22 psi ?

??

Hi Brian, if you put this set of words (without the quotes) "tyre tyres tire tires" into the Advanced Search tool, then choose "Match any words" in the Match window, quite a lot of topics about tyres will be listed. Many of them are about pre-war models, but still make very interesting reading.

To get things started, here are a few quotes about post-war models from the first page of the search results.

David writes in 350 Mk4 Tyres

Quote from: DJSI put new tyres on my Mark 4 last year.
Front is a 3.25 x 19 and the rear is 3.50 x 19. Both are Avon Speedmaster Mk II.
The front is ribbed and the rear is a block tread pattern.
I bought them mail order from M&P in Swansea IIRC.
Hope this helps, David

Then in Mk 5 replacement tyre, Eddie writes

QuoteLast year I fitted a Mitas HO1 tyre on my Dragonfly, and am very pleased with it.

And in Dragonfly Tyres, he says

QuoteFrom new, the Dragonfly was fitted with WM2 rims and Firestone tyres - both 3.25 x 19" - ribbed on the front and block tread on the rear. I have always had a preference for Avon tyres, but the 3.25 x 19 SM (rear) is no longer available, so am now using a 3.50 x 19 rear with no problems.

Roy lists his preferred tyre pressures in Dragonfly tyre pressures

Quote from: RoyI've owned my Dragonfly for over 50 years and I use 22psi front and 24psi rear.

And Eddie concurs in Dragonfly maintenance

Quote from: EddieDepending on your weight, the recommended tyre pressures are 22/24psi both front and rear.

Further comments from Eddie in Tyre problems 80+

Quote from: EddieJohn,
          Originally the rear tyre would have been a 3.25 x 19 on a WM2 rim (1.85" wide) with 22 lbs / sq in pressure - these figures being for standard road use. If the tyre section or rim width has been altered, it may effect the seating of the tyre bead in the rim and be the start of your problems. I have used the 'cheapie' Oriental tubes without any problems other than slight porosity giving rise to gradual pressure loss - about a pound every 2 days. (Always check tyre pressures prior to riding). With the original Dunlop rims and tyres, some lubrication and about 40 psi is usually needed to get the tyres to seat correctly on the rims - if yours are going into place much easier than that, perhaps you should invest in new rubber, as they have probably been strained or are getting somewhat geriatric. If rigor mortis is setting in, I would have expected the tyre bay mechanic to have commented!
        Security bolts were listed for the Plus series, but were not really needed for general road use. A little dodge we used to use on our old scrambles bikes, was to fit the tyre and before inflation, turn it in the direction that it would normally rotate - this makes the valve lean back - if the locking ring is then left loose, you can periodically check the valve angle to see if creep is occurring (before having to spend out on another tube!). The front tyre only suffers braking forces, so the valve should be leant the other way!
                                    Regards, Eddie.