Hello ,
I am Christian and I am working on an E32.

The BTH Headlamp wich is mounted has an Cable Connector.

( Hope you understand my " perfect " english)

The switch is working and I rewound the Ammeter yesterday with success.

No I have not enough knowledge to take all cables on the right terminal ,
cause off I did not know the exact meanings of the Letters of the terminals.

Can anybody help me with a drawing or a list with the descriptions ?
The switch has 4 positions , Off , C , D, F.
What does it means ? C = Charge ? .......

Thank you very much for your help ,
and I wish to all a happy new year

Christian

Hai George
Ik heb voor jou voorrem hendel en compressie hendel, dit zijn nabouw van een goeie kwaliteit, ook heb ik nog een originele remvoering houder voor de achterrem heb je nog interesse? 
Gr Hans Overveld

Have put on a couple of hundred kilometres since; over a few shorter rides.
She starts first gentle kick every time, and idles well.
Runs well until more than half throttle, and anything more, it seems to have nothing there.
Pulled carbs, and she has #75 main jets. Could be the reason for feeling like low on fuel with throttle opened up.
I want to try a pair of # 85 main jets, but unsure as to where to get them from.
These are the short jets, and look identical to the normal Mikuni jets (without actually having both side by side.)

Are these readily available over in the UK, or even in club spares?

Cheers and thanks for your help.

hi i have three post war douglas's t35 1947 was same owner for 50 plus years who was a member for over 50 years and has the  plaque to prove it.
a mk5 1951 with 90 plus front wheel on 19 inch rim this bike has alloy rims alloy mudguards front and rear not sure what it may have been used for in the past
 and another  mk 4/5 metalic blue not yet all together but seems all there.
nice to see they are all listed in the above register so must have been known in the club for sometime  i am awaiting membership cheers mike, will try to upload some pics asap

hi eddie thanks for your thoughts and replies i seem to get the info over in stage's, as you said i see the 80/90 forks with more of a wrap around mounting, i should have said at the start my wheel is a 19 inch  but i will check my bushes  not sure if the leading suspension arm is at the same angle as the brake stay  and if not what complications that may cause, i wondered if any members had the same set up.
regards mike

Mike,
         Your earlier posting stated that you were having problems when braking heavily - I just mentioned 2 other causes that I think might be more likely culprits than the substitution of a 'Plus' front brake. My reason for thinking it may not be the change of brake is the fact that several other owners have done the same without making any comment about side effects. However, the brake reaction lug on Plus forks is positioned further away from the leading link pivot than on Mark forks, and is a different lug with a larger contact area where it is brazed to the main fork tube (presumably to cater for the higher stresses generated by the larger brake).
  Your last posting states that you have the Plus wheel in your Mark - whereas the original posting says it is just the brake - maybe, the change in wheel diameter (19" to 21") is having some effect on the handling.

Regards,
             Eddie.

not sure if i made  my comments clear i have a 90plus wheel in my mark v forks is that compatible cheers mike

Hello
In The New Conrod, Nov/Dec 2024 in page 29, I just read about a gearbox oil seal conversion by Dave Richmond. It appears to be an article from the archives, and the page numbers do not match my Spare Parts List, plates 13 and 14 match plates 15 and 16 in my edition, so far so good. Can anyone tell what type of oil seal to use, should it seal against the shaft or against the surface on the back of the coupling? The felt seal gasket have to be omitted, but what about the felt seal carrier, must it also be omitted? What will happen to the rollers in the roller bearing when the front cover is removed, will the rollers stay in place or fall loose? Does anyone have experience with this?
I am interested because for a few years now I have run a MK3sports engine with S-cams, coarse timing gear train and modified cylinder heads and carbs, in my MK5 frame, and it runs well, but now I want to try how the MK5 engine, which I have long had ready, will be to run. It gives me the opportunity to do the conversion on both gearboxes and that is why I am interested.
Thanks in advance for any advice , Hoejmark

I am looking for a Douglas ew600 crankshaft for my Douglas ew600.

My ew600 crankshaft has a loose press fit on the timing side crank web and is rattling around.
The tapered surface of the flywheel is also damaged.
I can't find a Japanese company that can repair Douglas crankshafts.

Mike,
        If you are having problems with brake judder, set a clock gauge up and check that the brake drum is running true. Careful adjustment of the spoke tensions may give an improvement without causing the rim to run out of true. Also, check out the top fork bearing - whilst it may be adjusted so that there is no slack in the actual bearing, the bearing may be moving in the fork top bridge plate ( I had that problem on my trials Douglas, so I modified the bridge plate to have a taper collet that eliminated any movement - that was about 40 years ago, and it hasn't needed re-adjusting since!).  Attached is a drawing of the fork bearing modification.

Regards,
            Eddie.