mk stand wear

[yosemite]

The stand on he T35 has y, over the last few months, seem to provide less support for the bike, resulting in the bike roccking on ground anything but flat, so today I put the bike on the bike lift and a padock stand and checked the stand pivot  I found that there was some play between the pivot and the stand  so  then  removed the main stand. 
I was expecting   the assembly shown in the parts book however the  reality was slightly different,  there being no bearing tube, the stand running directly on a stepped stud. (see picture)looking at the stand the stops are also worn which is I think has been the cause of the recent problems.
I suspect that at some point in its history there have been problems with the stand and a new pivot has been made to cure this (see photo)
I think that I will have to open out and bush the stand to eliminate the play which I suspect has caused the problem by allowing the stand not to rest against the stops correctly when down
can anyone please answer me the following ,
Should the holes in the stand braccket be the same diameter, (mine are different )?
What is the outside diameter of the stand bearing tube, as i would like to know if I can revert back to standard
Are the stands weldable as I was planning on getting the worn lugs built up and file them back to size
Are the lugs on the frame tube welded or brazed to the tube as one appears to have been opened up and may need bushing to use a standard setup. 
My bike has a waffle box silencer but suspect it has a later narrow stand, how do I tell the difference
Thanks in advance
Paul

[eddie]

Paul,
        On the narrow stand the lower part of the legs are parallel - on the wider stands (there were 2 types) they are splayed. The standard set up for the stand pivot is: a 1/2" dia pivot bolt through the frame lugs, the stand has a bearing tube 5/8" OD and a neat fit between the frame lugs.
   The most common problem with Mark stands not supporting the bike is due to owners trying to kickstart the bike on the stand - the extra load wrings the frame cross tube, making it difficult to remove the pivot bolt as it then fouls the bottom frame tubes. Because of this problem, Club spares used to supply a stud and 2 nuts in lieu of the original bolt and 1 nut. If your cross tube has been wrung, but you can still fit the pivot bolt (stud), the stops on the stand can be welded up, but dont attempt to start the bike on the stand or the cross tube will get wrung even more, making the pivot bolt impossible to remove. Some frames had steel lugs for the stand - others had bronze lugs, but in both cases, the lugs were pinned and brazed to the cross tube.

  Regards,
                 Eddie.