Have you explored finding those Bosch plugs ?

I use them in a different brand of flat twin, and they are excellent.
Real mile eaters, go rusty before the spark goes off, in fact !
Just file them square at tune-up time and go again.

On another problem. I have practically ran out of space to adjust the carburettor cable adjusters. Do the junction box end caps need to be screwed all the way in or can they be screwed partially way in to help adjustments of the cables. Thanks 

Hi all, just got my MkV running  how it should be except for the throttle cable junction box. Moving the handlebar to the right is making the engine speed up. Originally I had tight up against the frame so I changed it to hang slack with a cable tie supporting it. I still can't get it to hold the engine speed steady when turning the handlebar to the right. What's the normal route and securing points for this. Currently it hangs below the frame. Thanks. Paul J

Hi , Have got a pair of dragonfly bare wheels free to anyone that can collect or happy to wrap if you want them collected ,  OLD RUSTY DIRTY and some more both are bare wheel no bearing ect but do have paint on.
i think ? the hubs could be saved and maybe the rims stripped and repainted ? .
I don`t want them to go up the tip but have run out of space , happy to send photos and store them for a while if you wish to collect . I am in Portsmouth

Gary

Looking forward to it Ray. All mine now seem to be ready !

When do you think there will be an entry form ? I would like to publicise in the two clubs I am involved in.

I have a pancake generator which appears complete except for one brush spring. it is fitted to a 350cc timing gear cover. Open to reasponable offers, plus postage.

You did it with the engine HOT, and throttle WIDE OPEN ?
Like the instructions say.
Now EW's don't have a huge compression ratio ?
(not sure if I have ever seen that quoted ?)
So that sounds in the ballpark, if done as above.

What is important is that both cylinders give similar readings.
And even more important if this gives fair performance on the road.

The instructions further say to add a teaspoon of oil down the plughole,
turn the engine over a few times, and test again.
If the readings jump up, a whole lot, then your rings are not sealing too well.

If my engine suddenly** becomes operative, I'll try this...
**Its been a long slow road, don't hold your breath !

QuoteIs it the shaft moving in and out, and the flats in the shaft opening and closing the oil ways?

Yes. The reciprocation pumps the oil. The rotation allows the flats to align with the inlet and exhaust ports in turn. The shaft is keyed to the gear so that the flats and the axial cam are timed correctly so the the inlet port opens as the piston (shaft) retracts and the exhaust port is open as the piston advances. You literally cannot time it incorrectly. Unless you used a gear/cam for another model. But even then I suspect Kingswood had a design practice of aligning the keyway with the maxim or minimum point in the stroke.

I believe there were only one 2-stage and one 3-stage pump design, though several different housings to suit different timing chests and oil gallery positions. So getting the wrong shaft is unlikely.

There is no advantage to adjusting the axial position of the shaft. I suspect the adjustable arm is simply a bodge repair to fix a broken casting. They were not sure where the pegs was supposed to be, so they made it adjustable. At full stroke the piston should be just bottom out in the bore, less some sort of headspace/clearance. It is possible that if you slid it far enough out it would not pump; and too far in it would jam.

-Doug

Does anybody know what the cylinder pressure should be on a Douglas 1926 EW 350 I have just done a pressure test on mine and the readings where 4 BAR or approx 55 PSI

Hello,
had to weld the rear  head und got my DT5 finally running.

As base settings I gave in and ex 0.55mm gap.
The Carbs were set to 1/2 turn, but I gave them 1 1/2 for a better idle.
The main is 140.

It seems summing too rich and the rear not firing every time.
Also float level too high.
May this, because it should run on alcohol or a mix? But It would not run on the front that good, as it does.

Any suggestions for different settings above and ignition timing?
Also any recommendation about an oil drip rate?

It leakes slightly between head and cylinder, but it's fine for the first try.
But will need to get some nee Gasket rings made. Any part source known?
May be also get the Cylinder honed, as its looking not really good.