Sounds like you are in the market for the original operators manual.
This was an all-in-one version back then.
Originals are highly sought after, and a photocopy contains exactly the same info.

https://www.nationalmotorcyclemuseum.co.uk/product/douglas-1913-sales-catalogue-instruction-manual-and-illustrated-parts-manual-all-in-one-all-models-geneva1495/

A slightly more detailed account of the same thing.
Curious that it commands a higher price  !!
https://www.vintagemotorcyclebooks.nl/en/product/douglas-motorcycles-1913-bms-photocopy-manual/

Hopethishelps.

Hi,
I am assisting a friend who has restored a 1913 2 3/4. Please could someone give me some advice on how to start cold, tickover and stopping. Also what controls to use air/throttle, compressor. Is there a setting on the magneto? And how to change the low and high gear with neutral inbetween. Basically any help to ride/operate it would be useful. Many thanks in advance.

Sorry about the delay in responding to your comment, I know that the plate is registered and taxed which is what I meant when I said still active. The DVLA also shows that the bike was first issued with this number in April 1992 though it possibly changed hands in July 2019. All this makes me think that it was issued with an age related registration number in 92.

Damaged keyway on the flywheel end of the crank plan to get a new keyway cut can anyone think of anything that would effect the positioning? Andy 

Hello MÜS,

if the surfaces of conrod and crankpin are not too bad, may be you can do a repair with oversize rollers.
If you want, you can send me a message and I explain the possibilities to you in German. I live in Germany.

Michael

Simon,
          Assuming you have the genuine Douglas crashbars, there is no need to disturb the torsion bars - just remove the bolt from the front end of the torsion bar, but leave the lever in place. If you have non-genuine crashbars, put the bike on the centre stand, then lift it further by placing wooden blocks under the stand feet - this should completely unload the torsion bars.

  Regards,
               Eddie

Simple question but I cannot find an answer:
Is there a way to remove the crash bars without releasing the torsion bar front lever? It took a 5' scaffold pole to get it back in place last time.

Thanks

The general wisdom is that if introducing oil into the cyls improves the pressures,
then the ring seal is not great.
Simply re-ringing with new rings may bring back all of the sparkling performance.
Subject to all else being good ...

BTW, compression tests are generally required also to be performed with the engine hot.
Has this engine been run recently when you did these ?
If the engine has merely been parked for a while, and cold, it may not quite be a true test ?
Hopethishelps.

I think I have a problem with my new (to me) Douglas 80 plus. One more resto for appearance not for go? Anyway, compression figures:
        LHS.  RHS
Dry.  130.  80
Oily.  155.  100

With both spark plugs out, throttle held wide open, kicking as swift as I can. 'Oily' is with 5 squirts of straight 40 down the plughole from an oil can. Obviously the RHS needs attention, but does anyone have a figure that should be reached? IS the left cylinder OK or not?, 130-155 seems good. 

PS I bought the bike from the estate of a guy apparently known to the LDMCC, near Cambridge? Nice maroon 80Plus. 

Thanks all

I am very pleased to report that the owner of Douglas 632 UXK has now contacted the interetested party and a sale has been agreed.

Roy