Hi Andy and Dave,
When you strip and clean your carbs, carefully check and clean the choke blocks. On the engine side of the choke block there is what looks like a blind drilling with 2 holes coming in at the sides - there is also a very small hole (about 30 thou) in the bottom of the drilling - make sure this is also clear. While the carbs are dismantled, also check out the float chamber bodies - in the bottom of the chamber, there is a 1/8" guide hole for the lower end of the float needle - clean this out with a small drill. It often gets a build up of rubbish that either makes the float movement sluggish or limits it's movement.
With regard to a weak spark - if the condenser has failed, there will be considerable arcing at the points. If this is the case, try backing it up by wiring an external condenser into the cutout lead, to see if there is any improvement.
Blown head gaskets - this is becoming much more common now that we are forced to use asbestos free materials - I am still re-using the old original head gaskets I fitted to my Dragonfly in 1976. If the problem persists, go back to the copper gaskets (even fit 2 if you are worried that one may be too thin). Also, if you have the heads and barrels powder coated, make sure you tighten the head nuts several times during the first few cycles of heating and cooling - the powder coating is a plastic and it squeezes out from under the head nuts, thus releasing the pinch on the gaskets.
Spark plugs, etc. - NGK B6HS plugs with non-suppressed caps on copper leads is the favoured setup.
Hope some of this helps,
Regards,
Eddie.