Front fork & spring disassembly

[steveale]

I have searched many pages and have not found this addressed.  I try not to ask but on an old machine that I have absolutely no experience on I don't want to force and break things...or if there is a procedure trick to removing something.

I am working on disassembly of the front fork for inspection, then lube/assembly.  So far things such as the threaded pins are tight with no slop...no cracks anywhere...everything looking good so far.

I cannot for the life of me figure out how to remove the springs.  I have both nuts off the right side but the lower left is spinning.  It appears there is a square head? inside the spring as part of the bolt???  Tried holding with screwdriver to no avail.  Any insight?

Also, the top nut is off the handlebars and the collar clamp is loose.  There appears to be a much rounded off square nut on the bottom of the neck.  Is that the receptacle female for the bolt coming down through the handlebars?

Since it has probably not been apart for 100 years I just don't want to go prying and beating on it blindly.

As always thanks so much for any insights....

[steveale]

Sorry, it's a 1913 model although it is know to have a later rear carrier and a few other post 13 parts.

[steveale]

Got the forks off, springs removed, etc.  Still having a devil of a time getting the main assembly out of the neck.  Neck clamp bolt is removed and I can spin that assembly around.  But nothing will move up or down.  Handle bars are off, I can see the round threaded slide down inside the shaft.  it is cocked sideways.  I just don't know what I am missing here...help please. 

[steveale]

Here are some pictures.  First is when the forks are still attached but being disassembled.  Last 3 are where things are now.  I don't want to beat and pry on things unless I know it is the correct procedure.  Bolt removed from bottom (held on the light mount).  Bolt and handlebars removed from top.  Round slider still in tube, can't remove it. 

[eddie]

Steve,
          Unscrew the top locking ring, then unscrew the main adjuster. The top lug should then lift up (complete with the top half of the upper bearing), releasing a set of loose balls. The forks should then drop out of the steering head (again releasing a set of loose balls from the lower bearing).
  Regards,
               Eddie.

[steveale]

So easy. Thx Eddie, I owe you a pint or three...

[steveale]

Just a couple of final thoughts for any that have to do this in the future.

loosen the bolt in the handlebar but don't remove it or you leave the spread collar in the tube and it can be problematic to remove.

don't remove the springs unless absolutely required.  i found my flat steel wrenches for my die grinder nuts miraculously fit the square douglas headbolts in the spring.

if you do remove the springs, put them back on before you mount the fork.  the top spring bolts will fall down and you have invert them and rattle them down into the hole.   OR   if the forks are mounted like I did, take 2 dental pick tools and "walk" the bolt up through the spring cavity to the top and get the nut started on it.

I have yet to find exact fitting bearing races...I put in new ball bearings and lubed them and it all glides wonderfully.  I have a bit of wear on the ID of the race that is worrysome but until i find replacements there is nothing I can do.

I thought my through shafts for the suspension were tight (a common problem noted on this forum).  I found when I drove them out they were shimmed with strips of what I suspect is tin material.  I lubed then all and re-installed with shims as found.  seems to be a nice fit all all shafts.  If the tin wears at least I know how to fix.

If anyone finds this thread in the future and needs either pics or insights contact me.  Again, thanks to the guys who stepped me through the sticking points...you help was most appreciated!

steve

[cardan]

A hint and a note on safety.

If a Douglas - or any bicycle or motorcycle - has a spreader system to clamp the handlebars in the steering stem, the best approach is to loosen the bolt about 1/2" - it will rise up from the handlebars as it will still be well engaged with the thread of the spreader nut - then tap the head of the bolt downwards with a soft-faced hammer. This will cause the tapered spreader nut to disengage with the bottom of the handlebar stem, hopefully allowing the joint between the handlebar stem and the inside of the steering tube to loosen.

Re safety: If one of your spindles breaks at your nominated touring speed of 45 mph you will most likely have an horrific accident. Usually when a spindle or the steering tube breaks, the front wheel shoots forward and the lower front part of the frame hits the tarmac. If it digs in, the rider will... enough said. Pieces of shim wrapped around spindles is the sign of (a) massive wear and (b) a previous owner who was not an engineer. Please, please, please have someone with a strong engineering background have a look at the forks. While wear in the spindles themselves is bad, wear where the links move on the stepped part of the spindle, where it is smaller diameter, is almost always present and possibly more dangerous. If you spend time or money anywhere on the bike it should be on the forks and steering head. It's really important to understand how the fork is meant to work. In particular the links must be pulled up dead tight onto the shoulders of the spindles, and the spindles must be a snug fit in holes in the links. There should be no movement whatever, ever, between the links and the spindles. The top and bottom pairs (2 links + 2 spindles) should be rigid rectangles. This also means that it is imperative that the four holes (top and bottom of the steering tube, top and bottom of the fork girder) are not only bored round, but also they must be parallel to each other. If not, the fork won't move up and down without sticking. It's a tricky job - I have a local machine shop trained in the art, and the forks produced are a revelation. Be sure also to use only an appropriate steel for the spindles (with a good core strength, maybe 4140). "Silver steel" or "stainless steel" won't do.

Please ask here if you need any more info.

Cheers

Leon