Hello,
had to weld the rear  head und got my DT5 finally running.

As base settings I gave in and ex 0.55mm gap.
The Carbs were set to 1/2 turn, but I gave them 1 1/2 for a better idle.
The main is 140.

It seems summing too rich and the rear not firing every time.
Also float level too high.
May this, because it should run on alcohol or a mix? But It would not run on the front that good, as it does.

Any suggestions for different settings above and ignition timing?
Also any recommendation about an oil drip rate?

It leakes slightly between head and cylinder, but it's fine for the first try.
But will need to get some nee Gasket rings made. Any part source known?
May be also get the Cylinder honed, as its looking not really good.

Although I have been diverted onto other projects, and it has taken a while, I have tried to check the oil galleries on the engine.

I still get no oil circulation and return to the tank. On the pump on this engine the 'end point' of the 'stroke' is adjustable (see photo), but this does not change the length of the 'stroke'. In the other photo the rotating pump shaft can be seen with the flats for each stage of the pump.

I'm unclear as to what creates the pressure and suction in the pump. Is it the shaft moving in and out, and the flats in the shaft opening and closing the oil ways?

Thanks for the replies, with the foot rests it widens the range I'm looking at trying to find which hopefully will bring more success. Regarding the kickstart its definitely looking like the manufacturing of a new pedal boss is the easiest way to go. I have contacts with a very good and helpful machine shop who should be able to make a tapered, splined punch for me, I can then make the blank boss with the internal tapered bore, then as you say Doug heat sufficiently and give it clout with a lump hammer and see how I get on.

Thanks again
Chris

??

https://thetimingchest.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/1934-Douglas-motorcycle-Model-Z-or-Z1-Wessex-Powerflow-foot-change-outer-gearbox-cover-IMG_9322-scaled.jpg

Looks not unlike the (smaller ?) tapered spline on the EW.
Definitely a broach job.

If you cannot find one like this one - now sold

Quote from: saluki42 on 17 May 2025 at 10:02 Thinking of manufacturing parts, has anybody tried hot forging the Boss to make a replacement kickstart pedal and if not themselves heard of someone who has.

Has anyone got a photo of said item - have we been here before ?

I looked into making a splined gear lever at some point - different make.
The splined bit is done with a broach.
An eng shop familiar with this said they could easily do it - if I obtained the broach
And pointed me at a shop that can do them.
Bit expensive for a one off - but can be used to make many.
In the meantime, a shop starting supplying them (gearlevers) ....

Finding a similar kickstart lever and modifying it to suit may be simpler ?
Anything got the same attaching arrangement ?

I see that suppliers in India are starting to turn them out for some makes.
The one that I obtained is quite good - so far.
If there is any demand they might do you some ?
Especially if it has any common parts with anything common ?

Quote from: yosemite on 17 May 2025 at 20:58 I use ngk b7hs, easily available. 
Other alternative is champion l82c
If you are buying from ebay be careful about ngk plugs am told there are a lot of fake ngk plugs around.
Just done a search for hh14 equivalent, came up with champion  l82c or ngk b9hs Should be short reach

Oh right. I thought they must have been long reach because the search I did as an alternative brought up NGK 7es and 8es which I have but are long reach

QuoteThinking of manufacturing parts, has anybody tried hot forging the Boss to make a replacement kickstart pedal...

See this post HERE

As for the foot rest arm and peg. The 'new' arrangement with the detachable peg came in with the S6. From then on I am pretty sure it is the same forging with many different bend offsets to suit various models. There is a drawing for the Aero era footrest arm, #17910, which has an 1-1/8 inch offset. I could measure the offset on my 1934-35 OW1 which would be the same era, but no guarantee the ohv and the sv models used the same offset. The detachable peg itself remained unchanged from 1930 to '38.

-Doug

I use ngk b7hs, easily available.  
Other alternative is champion l82c
If you are buying from ebay be careful about ngk plugs am told there are a lot of fake ngk plugs around.
Just done a search for hh14 equivalent, came up with champion  l82c or ngk b9hs Should be short reach

Just been messing about with my Douglas again  to test both cylinders separately and noticed that the left hand cylind3r spark plug wasn't sparking too well. These are Bosch short reach spark plugs. Looking for an equivalent to the original Lodge HH14 it came up with NGK which are long reach. Can anyone give me a suitable plug to buy and tell me, should they be short or long reach. Thanks, Paul J

Hi I'm coming towards the end of my 34 Model Z resurrection but still need some help.
Apart from the never ending hunt for a unicorn or at least a kickstart pedal I am also looking to either find and purchase or if need be make some of the parts for the foot rests. Jumping to the conclusion that making the parts will be the quickest if not the easiest solution what I'm looking for is any information people may have regarding dimension and profiles of the parts I believe are called the 'Left and Right Support Arms'. With the right detail I'm sure if I can't make them myself I know a firm that can.

Thinking of manufacturing parts, has anybody tried hot forging the Boss to make a replacement kickstart pedal and if not themselves heard of someone who has.

Thanks in advance.
Chris